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Our seven nights in Saint Remy have flown by, and unfortunately, we’ll have to save some of our intended visits for another time. The temperature has consistently reached 42 degrees Celsius on most days, which certainly adds to the exhaustion when exploring medieval towns constructed from rock and stone. Thankfully, the plunge pool at our accommodation has been a delightful respite, often accompanied by a cold beer.

In town, a common practice is for all shops to close around 1:30 to 2 pm, followed by restaurants ending their lunchtime service. This marks the start of the “siesta” period, during which everything winds down. The town comes alive again around four in the afternoon as restaurants prepare for the evening, and shops reopen, allowing for more shopping. It’s customary for most people to enjoy dinner between 8 and 9 pm when the temperature has cooled slightly. Our evenings have been spent savouring local dishes in Saint Remy or having a simple meal at our cabin—perhaps some bread and cheese or a roasted chicken from the market.

Saint Remy is renowned for its bustling Wednesday morning market. Interestingly, on Tuesday evenings, they host a craft market where local artisans showcase their products. The market runs well past 11 pm, and at some point during the night, it transforms into a market featuring local produce, flowers, clothing, olive oil, and more. This unique atmosphere was one of the best markets I’ve ever experienced (except for Beaune of course). The lively event was brimming with locals purchasing their weekly provisions and visitors reveling in the diverse offerings. Music filled the air, adding to the vibrancy. During our time there, we were thoroughly impressed and ended up with a bag full of dresses for our granddaughters, shorts for Phil, succulent ripe peaches, a roasted chicken, a baguette (of course), and thoughtful gifts like olive oil, lavender, and handcrafted little books.

The region within a 50-kilometer radius of Saint Remy offers access to charming villages such as Gordes, Menerbes, and Bonnieux in the Luberon area. Closer still is Le Beux du Provence, where we enjoyed the famous Les Carrieres des Lumieres—an illuminating production within a disused quarry. This captivating presentation spanned from Vermeer to Van Gogh and Mondrian. While some of my companions enjoyed Monet and friends in Australia back in April, and many from New Zealand visited Van Gogh in Auckland years ago, the unique setting within the quarry’s vaults lent this production a surreal and enchanting aura. Our journey continued, leading us through countryside adorned with olive trees. We took a pause to indulge in a tasting and relish the quaint beauty of villages like Maussane and Eygalieres.

One of our excursions to the Luberon brought about an unexpected highlight: a visit to the vineyard owned by Sir Ridley Scott, the famous director of iconic films like Gladiator, Thelma and Louise, and Black Hawk Down, among many others. Sir Ridley Scott personally designed all the labels for the bottles, and during a wine tasting in the grand and impressive building, we were treated to a display of numerous props from his movies.

Regrettably, we couldn’t make it back to the vibrant Aix en Provence this year, even though we loved our previous visit. The medieval heart of the city has enchanting narrow streets, gorgeous squares – many with the famous fountains, and exquisitely preserved architecture. Similar to many towns across France, its wide boulevards are lined with elegant Plane trees. The city also holds a significant place in art history, as the celebrated Post-Impressionist painter Paul Cézanne spent many years here. Just as Renoir lived in Cagnes sur Mer, Picasso in Antibes, Matisse in Nice, and Van Gogh in St Remy. It’s obvious that the fascination of the South of France captivated these great artists.

We certainly were captivated and needed more time.

We are currently in St.Remy, enjoying our stay in a very cute Cabanon for the next 7 days. It is a simple, all-in-one-room accommodation, but the setting is charming; we have access to a refreshing plunge pool and are very lucky to have a continuous supply of produce from the lovely Jordanes vegetable garden. The fruit and vegetables are warm and delicious. The peaches and nectarines are not only massive but also perfectly ripe and dripping with juice. We were also generously given an enormous bunch of grapes which enhanced our simple cheese and baguette dinner.

Heading to Saint Remy, we decided our journey would go up through the Maritime Alps. The towering rock faces of the Alps were both impressive and slightly daunting as we navigated the winding roads. The local French holidaymakers had filled up the camping grounds, drawn to the stunningly blue waters of Gorges du Verdon. Our trip was made even more unexpected by the expansive farmland nestled high in the mountain valleys and the wonderful blue Eryngium growing wild on the side of the road. There many charming villages to choose from to stop for lunch.

After descending to flatter terrain, I found myself disappointed and amazed as we passed km upon km of rows of cut lavender. I had hoped to see the lavender fields in full bloom, but was aware our timing might not be quite right. Nevertheless, I’m eagerly anticipating my next visit during the lavender flowering season, which I’ll include in my confirmed tour itinerary.

We didn’t arrive in St. Remy until 6 pm, an undoubtedly long journey. Thankfully, the plunge pool provided much-needed relief, and we enjoyed a pleasant 20-minute walk into town for dinner.

The European temperatures have been exceptionally high, consistently reaching 38-40 degrees each day. Navigating as tourists under such scorching conditions has proven challenging. After our initial morning exploration of St. Remy’s historic district, we found ourselves succumbing to the local custom of an afternoon siesta. While we could attribute our tiredness to the long drive the previous day, this delightful practice could easily be adopted in Tarras this upcoming summer.

A daily routine now involves a morning coffee and croissant, usually accompanied by a 20-minute walk to and from St. Remy. I was particularly delighted to experience the local Brocante market (though I refrained from making any purchases, despite the collection of outdoor furniture).

Yesterday, we ventured to Arles, a 30-minute drive away. Despite our best efforts, the heat left us rather sluggish, even after a couple of beers. Our self-guided walk of Arles’ ancient streets was cut short, and even the colosseum failed to hold our interest in the sweltering heat. Fortunately, we stumbled upon a shaded spot for a fantastic lunch, and in the afternoon, we sought refuge in the air-conditioned Van Gogh Gallery and the Roman Antiquities museum, both of which were well worth a visit .

A valuable lesson learned: most shops in France are closed on Sundays. While you can find bread in the morning, acquiring it in the evening is a different story. Restaurants are open for lunch, but supermarkets close at 5 pm.

A simple dinner for us ended up consisting of, slices of tomatoes on a grilled baguette, topped with marinated white anchovies (which we had purchased earlier). It was actually amazing.

I think these experiences highlight the best of travel. By immersing ourselves in new cultures, savouring their culinary delights and traditions, and gaining insight into a different way of life we want to take our time and hopefully get to know a few locals .

We easily fell in love with the old medieval town of Cagnes-sur-Mer. Though it stands as a city in its own right, its modern counterpart extends from the base of the old town to the Mediterranean. Unfortunately, a motorway divides the city, creating a sense of disconnection for the locals. In fact, the train line and road occupy much of the flat land in certain areas. The view from the train along the coast must be truly impressive.¹

The complimentary bus service that shuttles between the old town every 15 minutes is a stroke of brilliance. It not only grants village residents easy access to shops and services but also introduces visitors to the square, where they can relish the restaurants and breathtaking views.

Numerous renowned hilltop villages lie in close proximity to the Mediterranean. We set aside a day for exploration, starting with the popular tourist village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence. To our surprise, it was quite close, and the throngs of tourists were staggering. While the village itself was stunningly beautiful, as we meandered through its medieval narrow streets lined with ancient stone buildings, we couldn’t help but notice that every shop seemed to be either an art gallery, a gift shop, or an ice cream parlor. Restaurants were brimming with patrons. Anticipating the need for something lighter than the substantial salads we’d encountered, we stumbled upon a family-run restaurant that served simple homemade French cuisine. The irresistible and delectable Pissaladière caught our attention—a traditional Provençal dish hailing from Nice. Essentially, it’s a savoury flat tart filled with caramelised onions, olives, and anchovies. We enjoyed our meal seated outside at a wine barrel, offering us a view of dishes leaving the kitchen.

Our journey continued into the afternoon, leading us first to Gourdon, the highest village in the Maritime Alps. Gourdon is renowned for its stunning views and is characterized by its medieval architecture, narrow streets, and well-preserved buildings. The village exudes a timeless tranquility that must be particularly amazing at night.

Visiting Grasse, the home of perfumery, had long been on my list. We navigated the winding roads once again to reach our destination, albeit taking a few wrong turns several times along the way. Finally, we found ourselves in an underground car park beneath the perfumery. They provided English tours, and the perfume industry’s rich history here is still thriving today. The tour was genuinely interesting and drew visitors of various nationalities. In addition to the perfume tour, they offered a costume museum that I loved.

Our Airbnb provided a peaceful retreat, allowing us to unwind in the evenings. We cooled off with a couple of beers while watching a group of men playing the game of pétanque. A late afternoon siesta was followed by a return to Grimaldi restaurant for our second night. This evening, a live band was performing at the pizzeria. Children were riding bikes and scooters, families strolled with babies, and once again, the restaurants were bustling with diners .

Our final day on the Côte d’Azur called for a trip to Nice. We opted for the bus and tram, which transported us to the city center in less than an hour. A walking tour we had booked for 11 am proved to be a rewarding choice. I heartily recommend these guided tours—available in numerous locations. They’re not only free but also interactive and incredibly informative. After spending two hours exploring the old town, we gained a deep insight into life before the unification of Italy in 1860. At that time, Nice was part of the Savoy region, spanning both Italy and France. The subsequent treaty resulted in Nice, along with Savoy, becoming French territory. As a result, strolling through the old town felt like being in Naples – vibrant and teeming with markets offering flowers, fresh juices, food, and the famous Socca—a chickpea pancake also celebrated in Palermo.

Our tour culminated at the end of the Promenade, stretching over 7 KM. The rocky beach was crammed with thousands of sunbathers—obviously an attraction for many. With temperatures soaring to 35°C, and the region boasting 300 days of sunshine a year, the allure was evident. Our swimwear had unfortunately been forgotten, and purchasing a new set would have cost a whopping 220 euros! so it was a NO.

Returning to our secluded peaceful deck, we found some lovely quiet once more. Tonight, a baguette, cheese, prosciutto, and a bottle of red wine formed a perfect conclusion to a day spent exploring in the heat.

1. ↩︎

And here we are. It’s hard to believe that after 3 years, we have finally planned a new tour to Italy. The tour is set to start on September 15th. However, for the next few weeks, we are embarking on a road trip through France and the UK, with the intention of potentially planning a tour for 2024.

The 17-hour Emirates long-haul flight to Dubai passed relatively easily for me, as I managed to sleep for 12 hours! I did have some assistance, though. Our first experience in Premium Economy was definitely worth it. compared to the 7-hour flight to Nice which seemed to drag on forever. After waiting in a queue for over an hour to get our rental car, we found that both of our phones wouldn’t connect to the internet. As a result, we had no directions to our Airbnb. We knew we were in a medieval village in the hills between Nice and Antibes. When we called for help, our host informed us that she was in the bar at the top of the village and would meet us there. Miraculously, we eventually found ourselves navigating the narrow winding roads heading to the Chateau that we knew was at the top of Cagnes sur Mer. The Norwegian interior decorator boys who own the Airbnb were also parked up at the bar and were enjoying a day visit.

So, for the next 4 days, we are staying in a super cute, extremely small apartment in a narrow cobbled alley. The village is simply gorgeous, and the square is surrounded by restaurants.

Unsurprisingly, tiredness set in early, and sleeping wasn’t difficult. Philip had a bright idea and changed the internet provider, so now we are able to find our way around again. Our first day was a slow start, including washing and walking through the narrow streets. We decided to park and take the little free bus down the hill to a bus stop, from where we continued on to Antibes for the afternoon.

The beaches were teeming with sunbathers and swimmers. Antibes boasts a beautiful old town which we discovered after a hot walk along the coastal walkway. Here, we also found hundreds of restaurants and many tourists. Rule number 1: stay away from the front row of restaurants. We stumbled upon a busy but evidently family-run restaurant that promptly served us two cold beers and two enormous salads

Antibes is famous for being the home of Pablo Picasso for many years. He purchased the Grimaldi villa overlooking the azure blue Mediterranean and produced a substantial volume of work from here. The villa has now become the Pablo Picasso Museum, and we were in awe of his work adorning the walls. I particularly loved his painted collection of plates, of which there were 56.

It’s easy to feel out of place in this world of beautiful hilltop villas and grand, luxurious boats. However, this stunning coastline is enjoyed by many French people and tourists alike, all on holiday and relishing the consistently hot sunny days. I read today that there will be no rain here until late September, and the gardens have to endure the dry weather. I am thoroughly impressed with all the planting along the walkways – dry gardens with plants that thrive in arid conditions, and they look fabulous.

Our first day in Cagnes sur Mer concluded with dinner in the square which, was filled with locals for the summer concert – this is usually Jazz every Friday but tonight was a Gospel Group. Surreal Really !!!

I am sitting rewriting this blog as Winter finally arrives in Central Otago and the rain is pelting against the windows, the temperatures have dropped significantly and the wind has been gale force. However, we have experienced a few weeks of unseasonably sunny weather and it gave a chance to us to mulch and put our garden to bed before spring.

I originally wrote this weeks ago after 4 weeks of horrible fog  – a 4 day break and then back into it for another 4 days. Although we had experienced the odd few days of this in the past, Central Otago had a gruesome time and almost had us reaching for the Vitamin D tablets.

My life has recently been thrown into helplessness as I spent two weeks unable to access my emails, website, or blogs due to my domain name being hijacked after an email was mistakenly sent to Philips’ closed Polytech address. These two weeks were incredibly stressful, and I felt a sense of powerlessness throughout. Finally, I managed to regain control of everything, and the last piece of the puzzle was recovering my blog. It was such a relief to have everything back in order.”

I always love Winter meals and there has been lots of our favourite and long slow casseroles with beef cheeks, shin or lamb shanks , lemony roasted chickens and soups. When you cook for two I always have left overs and they ultimately get turned into pies, sauces for pasta, risotto’s and can feed us for 3-4 nights.

But the best has to be Tartiflette  – Philip’s new Signature dish – we have had the opportunity to buy some French cheese recently and for those of you who have travelled on the Venice to Beaune tour you will remember the mountain lunch in Betex high in the hills looking at Mount Blanc. The main ingredients in tartiflette includes potatoes, reblochon cheese, bacon, onions, and white wine and since we are still eating our own potatoes, onions and garlic, it is the perfect dish.

This traditional French dish  originated in the region of Savoie in the French Alps. It is hearty and indulgent and particularly popular during the colder months and is known for its rich, creamy, and comforting flavours. We can certainly agree and will be making it again for sure. 

It has also been a treat to walk through the vegetable isle in the supermarket. Our vegetable garden has produced an abundance of crops and we have just reached the last bowl of tomatoes ripening in the warmth inside. It has certainly been – ‘What do we have – What will we cook’ and must admit the many vegetarian meals have been a preference.

My life was thrown into shock and sadness when my darling Aunt Isabel was killed in a car accident  on the 2^nd of June in Cromwell. She has travelled on tours with me 3 times and many of you will remember her spritely, energetic personality. Living close to her was a bonus for us both and she loved her retirement village in Cromwell, taking part on the weekly walks and the many new friends she made. I know many of you will be as shocked as we are. I recently vacuumed and closed her doors, to the lovely villa she made home, as my unhappy job of finalising her estate comes to an end.

Philip and I depart for Nice on the 13^th August ( wow in just under two weeks)

We are spending a month in France and the UK before my tour starts in Rome on the 15^th September. We will be doing research for tours in 2024 and getting a feel for what will work. I am meeting tour guides and will be sorting hotels, garden visits, wine and food experiences and local specialties.

I am receiving E Mails about what’s going on tour wise for 2024

Tours 2024 

At the moment : Proposed Dates 

Australia | Victoria – 8^th – 22^nd April 

This was a huge success this year and it will be a thrill to redo our fabulous visits in 2024

Turkey – June

(we are not staying in the fog for another year)  Allison and Hasan are in holiday at the moment. Dates and itinerary will be confirmed soon. – but it will be the second half of June. 

Now the Challenge : We are looking at ….

Late August  / Early September Ideas : 

I am thinking …..

Provence and then train to Normandy

or

or maybe back to back tours

Italy…. Umbria, Chianti / Tuscany, Cinque Terre, Piedmonte, Como – fly out of Milan

If you are interested in a tour for 2024 I am keen to hear from you and your choice. No obligation, but at this stage I have curious people looking for a tour.

It feels so good to be back online and there will be blogs arriving regularly while we travel for the next 2 months .

Ciao Ciao Judith

Our only very wet day of course had to be the day we drove through the Grampians to Halls Gap. It wasn’t even worth stopping at any of the lookouts since visibility was so poor. Kangaroos and Emus were noticiable from the roadside and the many trampers, walkers and bikers would certainly have had a miserable day. Coffee shops and a lunch stop were hardly inspiring in places like Halls Gap and Ararat.

Our bus driver Trevor was a mine of information. Australia commemorates many of their fallen soldiers from World War 1 and 2 with avenues of trees called Avenues of Honour. As we came close to Ballarat Trevor drove us down the Avenue of Honour entering Ballarat – 32 km long and including 17,000 trees. Many of the trees were deciduous and at this time of the year looked stunning. After the huge Memorial Arch he drove around Lake Werribee past the Olympic rowing venue and botanical gardens.

The next two nights are in Ballarat- staying at Craigs Hotel – the legendary Australian gold-rush era grand hotel built in 1862. Many bedrooms had four poster beds, furniture and decorations were in keeping with the period and after 5 years of extensive renovation it all fitted since we were here to understand the gold rush and the money it generated to create a city full of beautiful architecture. The following morning I arranged a walking tour with Andrew from Eco Tours. He helped explain the enormity of gold found here, the thousands of immigrants that came to make their fortune, the creation of many towns and cities in the vicinity and show the many pubs, churches, schools, universities, and businesses built on gold.

We did visit Sovereign Hill in the afternoon. A huge replica township – actually on the original mining site. Yes it was touristy, yes it wasn’t something I don’t usually include. But, it provided a great insight – especially the demonstrations of the blacksmiths and wheelwrights. Italian was the restaurant of choice tonight and Ragazonne was excellent.

Our final day on tour meant we headed back to Melbourne and the Cullen Hotel. This via a visit to the most intriguing garden I have ever visited. Over 21 years a guy called Lyle at Roraima Nursery not only sold plants but had 2 acres of the most amazing planting – many of his collection in massive metal objects he has collected over the years. We literally all lost each other in the first 2 minutes as we wandered through the myriad of paths and were captivated by the enormous amount of work.

It was a beautiful afternoon and Trevor knew exactly where the best place would be to drop us off for lunch. Geelong was 10 minutes away and has an extensive marina lined with cafes and restaurants. A lovely hour was spent with a beer and for some fish and chips .

So… back into the city, a few bottles of Prosecco to celebrate Bronwyn’s Birthday and our last dinner at Maha East – situated within walking distance from the hotel in Chapel Street. The atmospheric restaurant ‘Maha East’ served modern Middle Eastern Cuisine. The set menu was perfect – including the best slow cooked lamb shoulder served with pilaff and courgettes.

One last sleep before many left at 5am to head home. Goodbyes at the end of a tour are always sad as the group that didn’t know each other two weeks ago disperses back to their home towns in NZ.

I have had yet another amazing group of people who looked out for each other, were funny, shared their knowledge and mixed so well. I am so lucky to travel with such lovely New Zealanders and had the pleasure to have Philip on tour with me for help and support – for many, it was another tour with me and for Beverely her 9th . Thank you everyone for your patience through the odd glitch, always being on time and I hope you enjoyed the first Victorian tour as much as Philip and I did.

Our 4 nights in Daylesford had been busy and our travel day today to Dunkeld in the Grampians was sunny and warm.

The once wealthy gold town of Clunes made a perfect coffee stop. It’s not hard to imagine what it must have looked like in 1850 with its wide streets, many pubs, huge churches and still today many cute cottages. Clunes is a favourite town used in movies and I can see why. 

I had to take my group to ‘Lambley’ – A garden nursery made famous by David Glenn and his dedication for dry loving plants. The vegetable garden was impressive as were many of the garden rooms. 

Once on the open road we were surrounded by the biggest wheat farms I have ever seen – many were having the residue stubble burnt off ready for the new seasons planting. Sitting on a tractor would take days to complete each crop field. As we neared Dunkeld the land turned into sheep grazing and the money made from the wool trade was evident. Although we were all pretty horrified to find out many of these farms were started by squatters with no regard for the indigenous Aboriginal’s.  Today they cover the vast flat landscape as far as the eye can see. 

We all had our eyes peeled to spot kangaroos. But, to our complete surprise a group sat over the road from the hotel when we arrived. There is not much in Dunkeld and the Royal Mail Hotel provides a uniquel experience for hotel guests or cottage accommodation on the station at Mt Sturgeon also owned by the Dunkeld Pastoral Company headed by Allan Myers.

But there is more. As hotel guests we enjoyed a wine tasting on the day of arrival in a 28,000 bottle wine cellar – wines from all over the world but specialising in Australian, Bordeaux and Burgundy wines. Followed by an excellent dinner at the ‘ Parker Project ‘ restaurant.

All the food for the hotel kitchens – which is overseen by 2 hat chef Robin Wickens is produced from the most extensive hotel kitchen garden, orchard, farm and walled gardens.  The following day we started with a personalised tour of the sustainable organic kitchen garden with Robin himself. The detail into seed collection, crop rotation, seasonal produce and variety was extraordinary. The chefs come each morning and choose their produce and from here the daily menu is dictated by the produce harvested . The local arboretum provided a lovely afternoon walk – complete with groups of kangaroos and some took advantage of the conservation tour later in the afternoon to meet Australian marsupials like: Brush-tailed Rock Wallabies, Eastern Barred Bandicoots, Fat-tailed Dunnarts, Potoroo, Squirrel Gliders and the carnivorous Eastern Quolls

But dinner tonight was at the 2 hat Wickens restaurant. It was full theatre in a stunning restaurant with  floor to ceiling windows overlooking the visiting kangaroos and Mt Sturgeon. Complete with wine matching, we were wowed by the eight courses for the evening. It was a lesson in precise service, each dish served in its own beautiful bowl or plate and described as to its origin from the garden or farm. It was great to hear the clinking of glasses, friendly chatter, bursts of laughter and amazement from my group as course was put in front of them.  The evening was a lesson in perfection and I will savour the experience forever.

After visiting Daylesford 3 years ago there were 3 must do visits that I absolutely had to include:

1. Visit the stunningly gorgeous Mt Macedon and walk in Vicki Hawken’s garden – Viewfield.
2. Dine at the Lake House restaurant owned by Ella Wolf Tasker.
3. Eat at Annie Smithers  – Du Fermier in Trentham.

Consequently, our last two days here were filled with pretty amazing visits.

At the foot of Mt Macedon is an avenue of the most stunning houses and gardens and at this time of the year it is an explosion of Autumn colour. I had planned on a picnic lunch and came prepared with delicious quiches, pork pies, terrines, pate, cheeses and plum tart from the Piper Deli in Kyneton. After coffee and a break in Woodend we headed to Viewfield garden . I met Vicki on my research trip 3 years previously and I was delighted to meet her at the gate when we arrived. She also insisted we have our picnic lunch in her garden which was an absolute treat. Her large creative garden was a lesson in space and planting and her areas varied from woodland to Australian native to intricate potagers – all surrounded by beautiful Autumn trees. A roll of brown paper was a cheap and perfect solution for a table cloth and I must say we had a very lovely picnic.

Before heading back to Daylesford we had time to drive to the Mt Macedon Memorial Cross. It turned out to be a special brief time to watch the preparations for the Anzac service to be held at dawn the following morning.

By 5.30 we had scrubbed up and put on our glad gears on –  to eat at the highly anticipated Lake House for dinner. Ambience, Atmosphere, Service, Food – this place excels in providing the best dining experience. We had an unsurpassed evening of perfection and can certainly recommend the Lake House in Daylesford – plus I can’t wait to go back. 

Our final visit the following day was one I worked hard to secure. Annie Smithers is a special Victorian acclaimed chef and her restaurant and cook school called Du Fermier in Trentam is very hard to get into. It was Anzac day and everything is closed. But, after some correspondence Annie offered me a visit to her home farm and garden called ‘Babbington Park’ and then back to Du Fermier for lunch.

Annie and her wife Susan’s projects were so inspirational – from restoring an old church and the amazing old shearing shed to building creative houses for their menagerie of ducks, chickens, goats, cows and sheep . The property was immaculate and surrounded by stunning gardens that supply Annie with the produce for her restaurant. Menus are planned depending on what is ready in the garden – consequently, change daily. I have worked with this philosophy for ever – Seasonal , local produce and Annie has taken this to a higher level and her garden was inspiring along with her boundless energy, enthusiasm and caring friendly personality.

Lunch was a lesson in simplicity and flavour – from salmon smoked over hay – served with beetroot and red cabbage / melt in your mouth chicken in a tomato capsicum rich sauce with potatoes and carrots / chocolate and berry roulade using the raspberries Annie had picked that morning. 

I try to make life on tour varied and tell the story of the region we visit. Between, Vicki at Viewfield, the Lake House and Annie at Babbington Park and Du Fermier, we experienced the work of exceptionally talented women who are passionate, very clever and obviously love what they do.

For the next 4 days we immersed ourselves in the towns and villages of Central Victoria. Heading to Daylesford where we are to spend the next four nights.

Our travel day provided an opportunity to stop – firstly at the cute little town of Lancefield. Obviously, our lucky day as the monthly market was spread out down the grass verge in the middle of the main street. It was delightful – full of locals with baskets overflowing with vegetables, children getting their faces painted and a huge assortment of produce on offer that I hadn’t seen at a market before like; Live chickens and ducks, bales of hay, wild local mushrooms, along with the usual fresh local vegetables and fruit, cheese, meat, eggs and flowers.

30 minutes on is the larger town of Kyneton. The antique shops, gift shops and clothing stores are famous here, along with the Piper St deli – where Philip and I did some shopping for a picnic to come. But, the real reason I wanted to bring my group here was the eclectic Botanik Bar at the old Royal George Hotel. They specialise in Vermouth and Amaro and have a very impressive collection. It seemed appropriate today to include a cocktail for lunch that was accompanied by a simple platter lunch of great bread, cheese, charcuterie, pates and olives.

Belinzona hotel is 5 minutes out of Daylesford – an old wooden hotel transformed into a stylish hotel for today. Pre – dinner drinks in large comfortable leather chairs proved a perfect spot to sit and chat about our day and the new interesting countryside we have been driving through.

It’s a long weekend and Daylesford is heaving with visitors and day trippers from Melbourne. The traffic was backed up in every direction – especially to the local market. Time for a walk, a shop or sit in a café and watch the crowds.

At 4pm we had an opportunity to visit an historical local landmark owned by a friend of my brother in-laws family.  In 1988 Tina Banitska bought a derelict Convent in Daylesford and over the next few years she single handedly transformed a dream into reality and now proudly has an award winning art gallery, café, bar, wedding venue, historical tours, accommodation, plus a beautiful garden to walk around. 

We felt privileged to be invited after 4 when all the hoards had  left and after such a busy busy day, Tina shared her life story – starting as a little girl from a poor Greek Immigrant family to the despair and tenacious hard work she has put in to create one of Victoria’s iconic attractions.  A special visit hosted by a very special lady.

Somehow the arrival of my tour bus and getting on the road also comes with a sense of relief. Even if there was a surprise both for me and my bus driver Trevor: He was driving a large 48-seater bus. I thought I was getting a small bus with a luggage trailer. He thought he was getting 40 people not 14.   I think we can both say it was a win win. It always feels good to gather my tour group in one place, they can chat endlessly in the huge big seats and its easier for me to talk. 

Driving out of the city was easy and with Trevor’s 30 years on the road he swiftly had us climbing the hills of the Dandenong’s. It is very green and lush here and obvious they have had recent rain. Large houses hide in the trees and their grounds sweep out to meet the road. Little communities are dotted all over the hills and from here many choose to commute into the city.  

Our first stop for the all-important coffee was the small Village of Olinda. It also sports one of the best hat shops in the country. Its owner duly arrived late to open but in time to sell a couple of hats and inform us many of his relative live in Dunedin (small world) https://truffaux.airshipcms.io

Just along the road is ‘Cloud Hill ‘Garden, a Japanese tea house and the Dandenong Rhododendron gardens so in that order we walked through the garden rooms of Cloud Hill, enjoyed a simple Japanese lunch but finished with a few decadent cakes and for those that wanted a brisk 30-minute walk in the botanical gardens. The Autumn colours are so disappointing compared to the previous two visits I have had here. The cool wet weather has made a big impact. Yarra Valley is only an hour’s drive away from Melbourne. We passed one of the biggest flower growing areas of the region. But, soon had vineyards spreading around us on all sides. Our accommodation is in a wine estate complex called Balgownie and within an hour we were immersed in our first wine tasting of Yarra Valley wines – notably – Sparkling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Shiraz, followed by dinner. 

A group of hot air balloons are up each morning early even though we have a leisurely 9.30 start. The mornings are cool and the valley below is shrouded in mist. 

Three years ago, when I did my research trip I was advised to go to a Nursery called ‘Antique Perennials‘. I meet Matt and his partner and they offered a tour of the nursery. So, I finally made it and wasn’t disappointed. This nursery is famous all over Australia and sells 99.5% of everything they produce.  Matt was generous with his time and knowledge and we were shocked to hear he lost everything in the black fires of 2009. At the gate the plant store is packed with the most interesting and strong plants and surrounded with a fabulous example of perennial planting suited to dry conditions.  Only wish we could buy …

The largest town in the Yarra Valley is Healesville – and also the home of ‘Four Pillars Gin’. After a brief walk and for some a little essential shopping !! (Which is always necessary on tour).  We started with a paddle of 4 gins to taste. It was fun, different and the casual shared food was whisked to the table super quick. 

The destination on our second day was to the town of Marysville.

The famous Black Spur drive links the Yarra Valley to Marysville and is bordered by immense mountain ash trees and equally tall  tree ferns. It’s a windy road, which provided wonderful views of the dense forest.

  A visit to Marysville is a humbling experience and amidst the beautiful Autumn trees it’s hard to envisage the town, which previously had a population of over 500 people, was devastated by the Black Friday Murrindindi Mill bushfire on 7 February 2009. Killing 45 people and around 90% of the town’s buildings were destroyed. 

Today it has returned to a quaint little village, ideal for a quiet time out of the city for walking or biking. The memorial is sobering and a reminder of the terrifying fire that destroyed so much.

A quirky talented artist called Bruno attracts visitors to his garden of terracotta sculptures and provides photos of his garden completely burnt out. It is surely an example of the fantastic resilience and hard work that is so evident here and in surrounding areas. 

Returning to our hotel we made an essential stop at the famous Chandon winery. It is one of the oldest in the district and is dedicated to creating méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines. 

Many of the Yarra valley wineries have large venue facilities for large functions and especially weddings. Our final nights’ dinner was at one such winery venue called Meletos. Attention to detail, clever interiors and beautiful gardens and surrounds, along with a delicious dinner made this a perfect way to end our time in the Yarra Valley.