We easily fell in love with the old medieval town of Cagnes-sur-Mer. Though it stands as a city in its own right, its modern counterpart extends from the base of the old town to the Mediterranean. Unfortunately, a motorway divides the city, creating a sense of disconnection for the locals. In fact, the train line and road occupy much of the flat land in certain areas. The view from the train along the coast must be truly impressive.1
The complimentary bus service that shuttles between the old town every 15 minutes is a stroke of brilliance. It not only grants village residents easy access to shops and services but also introduces visitors to the square, where they can relish the restaurants and breathtaking views.
Numerous renowned hilltop villages lie in close proximity to the Mediterranean. We set aside a day for exploration, starting with the popular tourist village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence. To our surprise, it was quite close, and the throngs of tourists were staggering. While the village itself was stunningly beautiful, as we meandered through its medieval narrow streets lined with ancient stone buildings, we couldn’t help but notice that every shop seemed to be either an art gallery, a gift shop, or an ice cream parlor. Restaurants were brimming with patrons. Anticipating the need for something lighter than the substantial salads we’d encountered, we stumbled upon a family-run restaurant that served simple homemade French cuisine. The irresistible and delectable Pissaladière caught our attention—a traditional Provençal dish hailing from Nice. Essentially, it’s a savoury flat tart filled with caramelised onions, olives, and anchovies. We enjoyed our meal seated outside at a wine barrel, offering us a view of dishes leaving the kitchen.
Our journey continued into the afternoon, leading us first to Gourdon, the highest village in the Maritime Alps. Gourdon is renowned for its stunning views and is characterized by its medieval architecture, narrow streets, and well-preserved buildings. The village exudes a timeless tranquility that must be particularly amazing at night.
Visiting Grasse, the home of perfumery, had long been on my list. We navigated the winding roads once again to reach our destination, albeit taking a few wrong turns several times along the way. Finally, we found ourselves in an underground car park beneath the perfumery. They provided English tours, and the perfume industry’s rich history here is still thriving today. The tour was genuinely interesting and drew visitors of various nationalities. In addition to the perfume tour, they offered a costume museum that I loved.
Our Airbnb provided a peaceful retreat, allowing us to unwind in the evenings. We cooled off with a couple of beers while watching a group of men playing the game of pétanque. A late afternoon siesta was followed by a return to Grimaldi restaurant for our second night. This evening, a live band was performing at the pizzeria. Children were riding bikes and scooters, families strolled with babies, and once again, the restaurants were bustling with diners .
Our final day on the Côte d’Azur called for a trip to Nice. We opted for the bus and tram, which transported us to the city center in less than an hour. A walking tour we had booked for 11 am proved to be a rewarding choice. I heartily recommend these guided tours—available in numerous locations. They’re not only free but also interactive and incredibly informative. After spending two hours exploring the old town, we gained a deep insight into life before the unification of Italy in 1860. At that time, Nice was part of the Savoy region, spanning both Italy and France. The subsequent treaty resulted in Nice, along with Savoy, becoming French territory. As a result, strolling through the old town felt like being in Naples – vibrant and teeming with markets offering flowers, fresh juices, food, and the famous Socca—a chickpea pancake also celebrated in Palermo.
Our tour culminated at the end of the Promenade, stretching over 7 KM. The rocky beach was crammed with thousands of sunbathers—obviously an attraction for many. With temperatures soaring to 35°C, and the region boasting 300 days of sunshine a year, the allure was evident. Our swimwear had unfortunately been forgotten, and purchasing a new set would have cost a whopping 220 euros! so it was a NO.
Returning to our secluded peaceful deck, we found some lovely quiet once more. Tonight, a baguette, cheese, prosciutto, and a bottle of red wine formed a perfect conclusion to a day spent exploring in the heat.
