Monthly Archives: August 2023

Our seven nights in Saint Remy have flown by, and unfortunately, we’ll have to save some of our intended visits for another time. The temperature has consistently reached 42 degrees Celsius on most days, which certainly adds to the exhaustion when exploring medieval towns constructed from rock and stone. Thankfully, the plunge pool at our accommodation has been a delightful respite, often accompanied by a cold beer.

In town, a common practice is for all shops to close around 1:30 to 2 pm, followed by restaurants ending their lunchtime service. This marks the start of the “siesta” period, during which everything winds down. The town comes alive again around four in the afternoon as restaurants prepare for the evening, and shops reopen, allowing for more shopping. It’s customary for most people to enjoy dinner between 8 and 9 pm when the temperature has cooled slightly. Our evenings have been spent savouring local dishes in Saint Remy or having a simple meal at our cabin—perhaps some bread and cheese or a roasted chicken from the market.

Saint Remy is renowned for its bustling Wednesday morning market. Interestingly, on Tuesday evenings, they host a craft market where local artisans showcase their products. The market runs well past 11 pm, and at some point during the night, it transforms into a market featuring local produce, flowers, clothing, olive oil, and more. This unique atmosphere was one of the best markets I’ve ever experienced (except for Beaune of course). The lively event was brimming with locals purchasing their weekly provisions and visitors reveling in the diverse offerings. Music filled the air, adding to the vibrancy. During our time there, we were thoroughly impressed and ended up with a bag full of dresses for our granddaughters, shorts for Phil, succulent ripe peaches, a roasted chicken, a baguette (of course), and thoughtful gifts like olive oil, lavender, and handcrafted little books.

The region within a 50-kilometer radius of Saint Remy offers access to charming villages such as Gordes, Menerbes, and Bonnieux in the Luberon area. Closer still is Le Beux du Provence, where we enjoyed the famous Les Carrieres des Lumieres—an illuminating production within a disused quarry. This captivating presentation spanned from Vermeer to Van Gogh and Mondrian. While some of my companions enjoyed Monet and friends in Australia back in April, and many from New Zealand visited Van Gogh in Auckland years ago, the unique setting within the quarry’s vaults lent this production a surreal and enchanting aura. Our journey continued, leading us through countryside adorned with olive trees. We took a pause to indulge in a tasting and relish the quaint beauty of villages like Maussane and Eygalieres.

One of our excursions to the Luberon brought about an unexpected highlight: a visit to the vineyard owned by Sir Ridley Scott, the famous director of iconic films like Gladiator, Thelma and Louise, and Black Hawk Down, among many others. Sir Ridley Scott personally designed all the labels for the bottles, and during a wine tasting in the grand and impressive building, we were treated to a display of numerous props from his movies.

Regrettably, we couldn’t make it back to the vibrant Aix en Provence this year, even though we loved our previous visit. The medieval heart of the city has enchanting narrow streets, gorgeous squares – many with the famous fountains, and exquisitely preserved architecture. Similar to many towns across France, its wide boulevards are lined with elegant Plane trees. The city also holds a significant place in art history, as the celebrated Post-Impressionist painter Paul Cézanne spent many years here. Just as Renoir lived in Cagnes sur Mer, Picasso in Antibes, Matisse in Nice, and Van Gogh in St Remy. It’s obvious that the fascination of the South of France captivated these great artists.

We certainly were captivated and needed more time.

We are currently in St.Remy, enjoying our stay in a very cute Cabanon for the next 7 days. It is a simple, all-in-one-room accommodation, but the setting is charming; we have access to a refreshing plunge pool and are very lucky to have a continuous supply of produce from the lovely Jordanes vegetable garden. The fruit and vegetables are warm and delicious. The peaches and nectarines are not only massive but also perfectly ripe and dripping with juice. We were also generously given an enormous bunch of grapes which enhanced our simple cheese and baguette dinner.

Heading to Saint Remy, we decided our journey would go up through the Maritime Alps. The towering rock faces of the Alps were both impressive and slightly daunting as we navigated the winding roads. The local French holidaymakers had filled up the camping grounds, drawn to the stunningly blue waters of Gorges du Verdon. Our trip was made even more unexpected by the expansive farmland nestled high in the mountain valleys and the wonderful blue Eryngium growing wild on the side of the road. There many charming villages to choose from to stop for lunch.

After descending to flatter terrain, I found myself disappointed and amazed as we passed km upon km of rows of cut lavender. I had hoped to see the lavender fields in full bloom, but was aware our timing might not be quite right. Nevertheless, I’m eagerly anticipating my next visit during the lavender flowering season, which I’ll include in my confirmed tour itinerary.

We didn’t arrive in St. Remy until 6 pm, an undoubtedly long journey. Thankfully, the plunge pool provided much-needed relief, and we enjoyed a pleasant 20-minute walk into town for dinner.

The European temperatures have been exceptionally high, consistently reaching 38-40 degrees each day. Navigating as tourists under such scorching conditions has proven challenging. After our initial morning exploration of St. Remy’s historic district, we found ourselves succumbing to the local custom of an afternoon siesta. While we could attribute our tiredness to the long drive the previous day, this delightful practice could easily be adopted in Tarras this upcoming summer.

A daily routine now involves a morning coffee and croissant, usually accompanied by a 20-minute walk to and from St. Remy. I was particularly delighted to experience the local Brocante market (though I refrained from making any purchases, despite the collection of outdoor furniture).

Yesterday, we ventured to Arles, a 30-minute drive away. Despite our best efforts, the heat left us rather sluggish, even after a couple of beers. Our self-guided walk of Arles’ ancient streets was cut short, and even the colosseum failed to hold our interest in the sweltering heat. Fortunately, we stumbled upon a shaded spot for a fantastic lunch, and in the afternoon, we sought refuge in the air-conditioned Van Gogh Gallery and the Roman Antiquities museum, both of which were well worth a visit .

A valuable lesson learned: most shops in France are closed on Sundays. While you can find bread in the morning, acquiring it in the evening is a different story. Restaurants are open for lunch, but supermarkets close at 5 pm.

A simple dinner for us ended up consisting of, slices of tomatoes on a grilled baguette, topped with marinated white anchovies (which we had purchased earlier). It was actually amazing.

I think these experiences highlight the best of travel. By immersing ourselves in new cultures, savouring their culinary delights and traditions, and gaining insight into a different way of life we want to take our time and hopefully get to know a few locals .

We easily fell in love with the old medieval town of Cagnes-sur-Mer. Though it stands as a city in its own right, its modern counterpart extends from the base of the old town to the Mediterranean. Unfortunately, a motorway divides the city, creating a sense of disconnection for the locals. In fact, the train line and road occupy much of the flat land in certain areas. The view from the train along the coast must be truly impressive.¹

The complimentary bus service that shuttles between the old town every 15 minutes is a stroke of brilliance. It not only grants village residents easy access to shops and services but also introduces visitors to the square, where they can relish the restaurants and breathtaking views.

Numerous renowned hilltop villages lie in close proximity to the Mediterranean. We set aside a day for exploration, starting with the popular tourist village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence. To our surprise, it was quite close, and the throngs of tourists were staggering. While the village itself was stunningly beautiful, as we meandered through its medieval narrow streets lined with ancient stone buildings, we couldn’t help but notice that every shop seemed to be either an art gallery, a gift shop, or an ice cream parlor. Restaurants were brimming with patrons. Anticipating the need for something lighter than the substantial salads we’d encountered, we stumbled upon a family-run restaurant that served simple homemade French cuisine. The irresistible and delectable Pissaladière caught our attention—a traditional Provençal dish hailing from Nice. Essentially, it’s a savoury flat tart filled with caramelised onions, olives, and anchovies. We enjoyed our meal seated outside at a wine barrel, offering us a view of dishes leaving the kitchen.

Our journey continued into the afternoon, leading us first to Gourdon, the highest village in the Maritime Alps. Gourdon is renowned for its stunning views and is characterized by its medieval architecture, narrow streets, and well-preserved buildings. The village exudes a timeless tranquility that must be particularly amazing at night.

Visiting Grasse, the home of perfumery, had long been on my list. We navigated the winding roads once again to reach our destination, albeit taking a few wrong turns several times along the way. Finally, we found ourselves in an underground car park beneath the perfumery. They provided English tours, and the perfume industry’s rich history here is still thriving today. The tour was genuinely interesting and drew visitors of various nationalities. In addition to the perfume tour, they offered a costume museum that I loved.

Our Airbnb provided a peaceful retreat, allowing us to unwind in the evenings. We cooled off with a couple of beers while watching a group of men playing the game of pétanque. A late afternoon siesta was followed by a return to Grimaldi restaurant for our second night. This evening, a live band was performing at the pizzeria. Children were riding bikes and scooters, families strolled with babies, and once again, the restaurants were bustling with diners .

Our final day on the Côte d’Azur called for a trip to Nice. We opted for the bus and tram, which transported us to the city center in less than an hour. A walking tour we had booked for 11 am proved to be a rewarding choice. I heartily recommend these guided tours—available in numerous locations. They’re not only free but also interactive and incredibly informative. After spending two hours exploring the old town, we gained a deep insight into life before the unification of Italy in 1860. At that time, Nice was part of the Savoy region, spanning both Italy and France. The subsequent treaty resulted in Nice, along with Savoy, becoming French territory. As a result, strolling through the old town felt like being in Naples – vibrant and teeming with markets offering flowers, fresh juices, food, and the famous Socca—a chickpea pancake also celebrated in Palermo.

Our tour culminated at the end of the Promenade, stretching over 7 KM. The rocky beach was crammed with thousands of sunbathers—obviously an attraction for many. With temperatures soaring to 35°C, and the region boasting 300 days of sunshine a year, the allure was evident. Our swimwear had unfortunately been forgotten, and purchasing a new set would have cost a whopping 220 euros! so it was a NO.

Returning to our secluded peaceful deck, we found some lovely quiet once more. Tonight, a baguette, cheese, prosciutto, and a bottle of red wine formed a perfect conclusion to a day spent exploring in the heat.

1. ↩︎

And here we are. It’s hard to believe that after 3 years, we have finally planned a new tour to Italy. The tour is set to start on September 15th. However, for the next few weeks, we are embarking on a road trip through France and the UK, with the intention of potentially planning a tour for 2024.

The 17-hour Emirates long-haul flight to Dubai passed relatively easily for me, as I managed to sleep for 12 hours! I did have some assistance, though. Our first experience in Premium Economy was definitely worth it. compared to the 7-hour flight to Nice which seemed to drag on forever. After waiting in a queue for over an hour to get our rental car, we found that both of our phones wouldn’t connect to the internet. As a result, we had no directions to our Airbnb. We knew we were in a medieval village in the hills between Nice and Antibes. When we called for help, our host informed us that she was in the bar at the top of the village and would meet us there. Miraculously, we eventually found ourselves navigating the narrow winding roads heading to the Chateau that we knew was at the top of Cagnes sur Mer. The Norwegian interior decorator boys who own the Airbnb were also parked up at the bar and were enjoying a day visit.

So, for the next 4 days, we are staying in a super cute, extremely small apartment in a narrow cobbled alley. The village is simply gorgeous, and the square is surrounded by restaurants.

Unsurprisingly, tiredness set in early, and sleeping wasn’t difficult. Philip had a bright idea and changed the internet provider, so now we are able to find our way around again. Our first day was a slow start, including washing and walking through the narrow streets. We decided to park and take the little free bus down the hill to a bus stop, from where we continued on to Antibes for the afternoon.

The beaches were teeming with sunbathers and swimmers. Antibes boasts a beautiful old town which we discovered after a hot walk along the coastal walkway. Here, we also found hundreds of restaurants and many tourists. Rule number 1: stay away from the front row of restaurants. We stumbled upon a busy but evidently family-run restaurant that promptly served us two cold beers and two enormous salads

Antibes is famous for being the home of Pablo Picasso for many years. He purchased the Grimaldi villa overlooking the azure blue Mediterranean and produced a substantial volume of work from here. The villa has now become the Pablo Picasso Museum, and we were in awe of his work adorning the walls. I particularly loved his painted collection of plates, of which there were 56.

It’s easy to feel out of place in this world of beautiful hilltop villas and grand, luxurious boats. However, this stunning coastline is enjoyed by many French people and tourists alike, all on holiday and relishing the consistently hot sunny days. I read today that there will be no rain here until late September, and the gardens have to endure the dry weather. I am thoroughly impressed with all the planting along the walkways – dry gardens with plants that thrive in arid conditions, and they look fabulous.

Our first day in Cagnes sur Mer concluded with dinner in the square which, was filled with locals for the summer concert – this is usually Jazz every Friday but tonight was a Gospel Group. Surreal Really !!!

I am sitting rewriting this blog as Winter finally arrives in Central Otago and the rain is pelting against the windows, the temperatures have dropped significantly and the wind has been gale force. However, we have experienced a few weeks of unseasonably sunny weather and it gave a chance to us to mulch and put our garden to bed before spring.

I originally wrote this weeks ago after 4 weeks of horrible fog  – a 4 day break and then back into it for another 4 days. Although we had experienced the odd few days of this in the past, Central Otago had a gruesome time and almost had us reaching for the Vitamin D tablets.

My life has recently been thrown into helplessness as I spent two weeks unable to access my emails, website, or blogs due to my domain name being hijacked after an email was mistakenly sent to Philips’ closed Polytech address. These two weeks were incredibly stressful, and I felt a sense of powerlessness throughout. Finally, I managed to regain control of everything, and the last piece of the puzzle was recovering my blog. It was such a relief to have everything back in order.”

I always love Winter meals and there has been lots of our favourite and long slow casseroles with beef cheeks, shin or lamb shanks , lemony roasted chickens and soups. When you cook for two I always have left overs and they ultimately get turned into pies, sauces for pasta, risotto’s and can feed us for 3-4 nights.

But the best has to be Tartiflette  – Philip’s new Signature dish – we have had the opportunity to buy some French cheese recently and for those of you who have travelled on the Venice to Beaune tour you will remember the mountain lunch in Betex high in the hills looking at Mount Blanc. The main ingredients in tartiflette includes potatoes, reblochon cheese, bacon, onions, and white wine and since we are still eating our own potatoes, onions and garlic, it is the perfect dish.

This traditional French dish  originated in the region of Savoie in the French Alps. It is hearty and indulgent and particularly popular during the colder months and is known for its rich, creamy, and comforting flavours. We can certainly agree and will be making it again for sure. 

It has also been a treat to walk through the vegetable isle in the supermarket. Our vegetable garden has produced an abundance of crops and we have just reached the last bowl of tomatoes ripening in the warmth inside. It has certainly been – ‘What do we have – What will we cook’ and must admit the many vegetarian meals have been a preference.

My life was thrown into shock and sadness when my darling Aunt Isabel was killed in a car accident  on the 2^nd of June in Cromwell. She has travelled on tours with me 3 times and many of you will remember her spritely, energetic personality. Living close to her was a bonus for us both and she loved her retirement village in Cromwell, taking part on the weekly walks and the many new friends she made. I know many of you will be as shocked as we are. I recently vacuumed and closed her doors, to the lovely villa she made home, as my unhappy job of finalising her estate comes to an end.

Philip and I depart for Nice on the 13^th August ( wow in just under two weeks)

We are spending a month in France and the UK before my tour starts in Rome on the 15^th September. We will be doing research for tours in 2024 and getting a feel for what will work. I am meeting tour guides and will be sorting hotels, garden visits, wine and food experiences and local specialties.

I am receiving E Mails about what’s going on tour wise for 2024

Tours 2024 

At the moment : Proposed Dates 

Australia | Victoria – 8^th – 22^nd April 

This was a huge success this year and it will be a thrill to redo our fabulous visits in 2024

Turkey – June

(we are not staying in the fog for another year)  Allison and Hasan are in holiday at the moment. Dates and itinerary will be confirmed soon. – but it will be the second half of June. 

Now the Challenge : We are looking at ….

Late August  / Early September Ideas : 

I am thinking …..

Provence and then train to Normandy

or

or maybe back to back tours

Italy…. Umbria, Chianti / Tuscany, Cinque Terre, Piedmonte, Como – fly out of Milan

If you are interested in a tour for 2024 I am keen to hear from you and your choice. No obligation, but at this stage I have curious people looking for a tour.

It feels so good to be back online and there will be blogs arriving regularly while we travel for the next 2 months .

Ciao Ciao Judith