Decisions for travel always needs hours of consideration and there are so many choices every tourist must make. In todays world the numbers of tourists has increased dramatically everywhere. Most popular destinations are heaving with people and along with the heat this summer it is best to pay attention to the time of the year and have a flexible daily schedule.
Many people are happy with a one night stop and the satisfaction that you can tick a box and say you have been there . As our tour through France is coming to an end and although we have put in the kilometres we don’t regret our 3,4,5, or 7 nights stays . Even on my tours I aim for 3-4 nights and we are agreed that our 5 nights in Dordogne could have been another 5 nights. However, even in this short time we became familiar with the roads and neighbouring villages and can at least say bonjour to Murray and Lynda’s lovely neighbours and know where to buy a good baguette.
Back in 1996 we stayed in Bergerac with our 3 small children, but we did not have the opportunity to explore Perigueux. Consequently, we had to make time to return to Bergerac and spent a wonderful morning before going onto Perigueux for the afternoon. We had forgotten about Bergerac’s magnificent timber framed house – unique to here. We followed the city’s walking guide thought the historical centre. But, eventually at the end we were drawn into a stunning boulangerie, that had the most exquisite food – we decided on a quiche each for lunch which surprisingly we hadn’t had as yet- in a country that created it.
Although Perigueux is a similar size, it somehow seemed bigger and the narrow cobbled streets in pale cream rock were very different to Bergerac. I managed to get a ‘French Haircut. ‘ ( essential)
We were gob smacked to find a shop called ‘Otago Rugby’ – Very smart men’s clothes . It certainly had an association to Dunedin – no idea who is behind it – maybe someone knows. We need to be selling this in Dunedin.
It was back to Beynac by late afternoon and we managed to get a booking at the very popular local Bistro ‘La Tournelle’ . Every table was full and the chatter from the outside tables to upstairs filled the night air. I had a prawn risotto followed by a mushroom omelette – which was delicious in its simplicity.
We spent our last day similar to Saint Remy and sought out visits very close by : the medieval castle of Castelnaud provided a good lesson in the harsh life of the times since the Castle was built in the 1200’s. For the next 4 hundred years it fell into many hands,(Including the English ). And along with many other castles of its type fell into ruins . Today Castelnaud houses a detailed collection of the implements of warfare and a glimpse into its harsh life .
We made sure we had time to have our last lunch at Chateau Monrecour, less than 5 minutes from Le Pech. The Chateau courtyard covered in umbrellas was idyllic and we had a superb lunch with a bottle of local rose.
Consequently, our last garden visit (also close by) had to be after a rather decadent siesta.
The story behind Marqueyssac garden is so interesting. Originally it was created around 1830 . But, the main development was by an incredibly creative man called Julien de Cerval . He inherited the property and having a passion for gardens he dedicated the last thirty years of his life to the beautification of Marqueyssac. He had tens of thousands of boxwoods planted that make up Marqueyssac Park.
Finally Kléber Rossillon, already responsible for the restoration of Castelnaud Castle and museum of warfare that we had visited in the morning undertook in 1996 the restoration of Marqueyssac.
He was also known as O’Galop and was the famous caricaturist that in 1898 created the Michelin Man for the inventors of removable tyres along with thousands of posters and children’s books. I love the unexpected that crops up when you travel . I had heard of the Michelin Man and of course the food guides which are a bible for many in Europe, but we found it fascinating to delve into Mr Google and learn about the journey from tyres to Food and Travel Guides. The Michelin brothers managed to successfully dovetail their tyre strategy to meet their end objective – To make people travel more and that they would be part of their journey.
I love the description in the first guide:
1 star meant – high quality cooking, worth a stop
2 stars meant – excellent cooking, worth a detour
3 stars meant – exceptional cuisine, worth a detour
You cannot but help to be wowed that 6 gardeners clip by hand the extensive and the most imaginative shapes of box hedging I have ever seen . The garden is a kilometre long and provides the most exceptional views of the Dordogne river below. Dotted with canoes today, it meanders through the valley. The patch work of walnut trees, maize and sunflowers look so pretty below. Walnuts are a huge crop here and there are many many trees everywhere, plus walnut liqueur, walnut cakes and tarts.
Our final evening was with a baguette, local cheese and a bottle of wine . It was so still and beautiful and made even more gorgeous by the hot air balloons literally floating above Cros Mignon. Only to be outdone by the most amazing lightening and thunder storm in the night.
A very special week and certainly what memories are made of.
XXX