Monthly Archives: May 2023

Victoria …. It’s a Wrap

Our only very wet day of course had to be the day we drove through the Grampians to Halls Gap. It wasn’t even worth stopping at any of the lookouts since visibility was so poor. Kangaroos and Emus were noticiable from the roadside and the many trampers, walkers and bikers would certainly have had a miserable day. Coffee shops and a lunch stop were hardly inspiring in places like Halls Gap and Ararat.

Our bus driver Trevor was a mine of information. Australia commemorates many of their fallen soldiers from World War 1 and 2 with avenues of trees called Avenues of Honour. As we came close to Ballarat Trevor drove us down the Avenue of Honour entering Ballarat – 32 km long and including 17,000 trees. Many of the trees were deciduous and at this time of the year looked stunning. After the huge Memorial Arch he drove around Lake Werribee past the Olympic rowing venue and botanical gardens.

The next two nights are in Ballarat- staying at Craigs Hotel – the legendary Australian gold-rush era grand hotel built in 1862. Many bedrooms had four poster beds, furniture and decorations were in keeping with the period and after 5 years of extensive renovation it all fitted since we were here to understand the gold rush and the money it generated to create a city full of beautiful architecture. The following morning I arranged a walking tour with Andrew from Eco Tours. He helped explain the enormity of gold found here, the thousands of immigrants that came to make their fortune, the creation of many towns and cities in the vicinity and show the many pubs, churches, schools, universities, and businesses built on gold.

We did visit Sovereign Hill in the afternoon. A huge replica township – actually on the original mining site. Yes it was touristy, yes it wasn’t something I don’t usually include. But, it provided a great insight – especially the demonstrations of the blacksmiths and wheelwrights. Italian was the restaurant of choice tonight and Ragazonne was excellent.

Our final day on tour meant we headed back to Melbourne and the Cullen Hotel. This via a visit to the most intriguing garden I have ever visited. Over 21 years a guy called Lyle at Roraima Nursery not only sold plants but had 2 acres of the most amazing planting – many of his collection in massive metal objects he has collected over the years. We literally all lost each other in the first 2 minutes as we wandered through the myriad of paths and were captivated by the enormous amount of work.

It was a beautiful afternoon and Trevor knew exactly where the best place would be to drop us off for lunch. Geelong was 10 minutes away and has an extensive marina lined with cafes and restaurants. A lovely hour was spent with a beer and for some fish and chips .

So… back into the city, a few bottles of Prosecco to celebrate Bronwyn’s Birthday and our last dinner at Maha East – situated within walking distance from the hotel in Chapel Street. The atmospheric restaurant ‘Maha East’ served modern Middle Eastern Cuisine. The set menu was perfect – including the best slow cooked lamb shoulder served with pilaff and courgettes.

One last sleep before many left at 5am to head home. Goodbyes at the end of a tour are always sad as the group that didn’t know each other two weeks ago disperses back to their home towns in NZ.

I have had yet another amazing group of people who looked out for each other, were funny, shared their knowledge and mixed so well. I am so lucky to travel with such lovely New Zealanders and had the pleasure to have Philip on tour with me for help and support – for many, it was another tour with me and for Beverely her 9th . Thank you everyone for your patience through the odd glitch, always being on time and I hope you enjoyed the first Victorian tour as much as Philip and I did.

A Union of Food, Wine, People & Place

Our 4 nights in Daylesford had been busy and our travel day today to Dunkeld in the Grampians was sunny and warm.

The once wealthy gold town of Clunes made a perfect coffee stop. It’s not hard to imagine what it must have looked like in 1850 with its wide streets, many pubs, huge churches and still today many cute cottages. Clunes is a favourite town used in movies and I can see why. 

I had to take my group to ‘Lambley’ – A garden nursery made famous by David Glenn and his dedication for dry loving plants. The vegetable garden was impressive as were many of the garden rooms. 

Once on the open road we were surrounded by the biggest wheat farms I have ever seen – many were having the residue stubble burnt off ready for the new seasons planting. Sitting on a tractor would take days to complete each crop field. As we neared Dunkeld the land turned into sheep grazing and the money made from the wool trade was evident. Although we were all pretty horrified to find out many of these farms were started by squatters with no regard for the indigenous Aboriginal’s.  Today they cover the vast flat landscape as far as the eye can see. 

We all had our eyes peeled to spot kangaroos. But, to our complete surprise a group sat over the road from the hotel when we arrived. There is not much in Dunkeld and the Royal Mail Hotel provides a uniquel experience for hotel guests or cottage accommodation on the station at Mt Sturgeon also owned by the Dunkeld Pastoral Company headed by Allan Myers.

But there is more. As hotel guests we enjoyed a wine tasting on the day of arrival in a 28,000 bottle wine cellar – wines from all over the world but specialising in Australian, Bordeaux and Burgundy wines. Followed by an excellent dinner at the ‘ Parker Project ‘ restaurant.

All the food for the hotel kitchens – which is overseen by 2 hat chef Robin Wickens is produced from the most extensive hotel kitchen garden, orchard, farm and walled gardens.  The following day we started with a personalised tour of the sustainable organic kitchen garden with Robin himself. The detail into seed collection, crop rotation, seasonal produce and variety was extraordinary. The chefs come each morning and choose their produce and from here the daily menu is dictated by the produce harvested . The local arboretum provided a lovely afternoon walk – complete with groups of kangaroos and some took advantage of the conservation tour later in the afternoon to meet Australian marsupials like: Brush-tailed Rock Wallabies, Eastern Barred Bandicoots, Fat-tailed Dunnarts, Potoroo, Squirrel Gliders and the carnivorous Eastern Quolls

But dinner tonight was at the 2 hat Wickens restaurant. It was full theatre in a stunning restaurant with  floor to ceiling windows overlooking the visiting kangaroos and Mt Sturgeon. Complete with wine matching, we were wowed by the eight courses for the evening. It was a lesson in precise service, each dish served in its own beautiful bowl or plate and described as to its origin from the garden or farm. It was great to hear the clinking of glasses, friendly chatter, bursts of laughter and amazement from my group as course was put in front of them.  The evening was a lesson in perfection and I will savour the experience forever.