Monthly Archives: May 2021

Completing Nelson / Marlborough Tour March 2021

Blenheim is our next stop on this tour and we had a couple of hours drive later in the afternoon from Kaiterikerit to our accommodation which was the very new and very gorgeous Urban hotel called 14thLane. It is run by Janet, Vicki and Craig and they made sure we felt at home instantly . They generously gave us use of the breakfast room to use for drinks and meals if we wanted. A change from eating out tonight it was Thai takeaways from across the road. They even delivered and turned out to be a perfect choice after a long day.

Blenheim is the home of one of my oldest friends, Lou and she along with her husband Peter helped me plan this tour. They drove me all over the place and provided the all important insider information . It’s essential for all my tours that visit and research each region and helps me prioritise the itinerary.

For Blenheim I really wanted to visit their famous Gardens and I was spoilt for choice. Besides, the biggest wine region in New Zealand can keep you busy for many days alone.

We started with Welton House and Garden. This stunning property was a combination of the creative sister and brother team, Wendy Palmer and her brother Ross. The planting here was ingenious and very clever. The garden wrapped itself around Wendy’s artistic modern inspired Villa and the show stopper of topiaried native hedges were imaginative and inspirational. Someone with a very imaginative eye!!!  But there was no-where in this garden untouched and all areas had an ingenious touch . I think this is one of the most inspiring gardens I have visited and just wanted to sit much longer on the large outdoor lounger and take it all in. 

Waiarau Vineyard was the obvious choice for lunch because of the recommended cheese soufflé and if there is anything I love is this gooey rich soft rich delight. I was keen to see if it is as good as Number 7 Balmac’s soufflé in Dunedin. It was absolutely delicious and met all my expectations. 

The afternoon was spent with a local guide called Karen who runs her own wine experience but usually on bikes. We visited 3 wineries – Cloudy Bay, Forest and Framingham’s and by tasting with the winemakers could gain an understanding of the popular varietals. Of course this is Sauvignon Blanc country and 80% of all the vines that stretch as far as you can see in all directions is Sauvignon Blanc. With over 150 wineries and many with cellar doors and restaurants you can spend many days tasting not only the Sauv but a host of other varietals.

Within walking distance is the restaurant Scotch. It’s a Tuesday night and it is packed with women. Not sure what that was about but it seems we coincided with a large golf tournament and what looks like girl’s night out. The food and wine was delicious but a muck up with our booking didn’t help and the older I get I find the noise level with table chatter hard to cope with. 

Day two in Blenheim took us south to the Seddon area which was particularly badly damaged in the earthquake of 2018. Today its two gardens – Carolyn Ferraby’s garden Barewood in the morning and Rosa Davisons native garden in the afternoon.

I have wanted to visit these two gardens for many years and have never managed to get to the Marlborough garden Festival in November. Of course we are seeing them in late summer and I love the ‘long laster’s’ that make this time of the year so colourful. 

Carolyn’s garden is a lesson in structure and garden rooms – each unique and clever. She has gardened here for a long time and what started as a dry barren landscape now is a leafy haven full of mature trees and under planted with many treasures.

In comparison Rosa’s garden is on a grand scale. It is accentuated by a very long wide walk from the house to the ocean and lined on both sides by natives. You can duck in and out to secluded lawns and ponds and near the house Rosa has created a sanctuary for Monarch butterflies.

Our garden visits were based around lunch at Vavasour Vineyard. Brad Newton from Dunedin and a long family friend has worked here for a number of years and when I approached him about lunch he offered their picnic garden and a wine tasting. He excelled himself and had a table set complete with a table cloth, glasses, bunches of grape varieties and even flowers. It was an idyllic setting and perfect for our delicious packed lunch prepared by Vicki back at 14thLane. 

It was a magical day – the weather, the visits and the wonderful hospitality of Carolyn, Rosa and Brad certainly made it one to remember. 

No visit to Blenheim is complete without going to the Aviation Museum set up by Peter Jackson. This can be many hours well spent and such an asset to Blenheim. It provides an educational insight into the planes and conditions of World War One and now the recently opened World War Two exhibition.

On my research trip I visited a vineyard called Clos Henri. Not only did I love the little church tasting room, but I wanted everyone to taste a Sauvignon Blanc which is not to everyone’s taste made in the French style. We sat outside and shared a couple of bottles of wine with very simple sandwiches and French fruit tarts which I spotted at a French Bakery in Blenheim in the morning.  It was out last day in Blenheim so there needed to be shopping time before dinner.

Back in amongst the vineyards is Arbour. Awarded two hats in the Cuisine Food awards this is a treat. Liz Buttimore and Bradley Hornby offer an ever-changing tasting menu that showcases their strong connection to Marlborough growers and artisan food producers, and including seasonal ingredients. The food was thoughtful and delicious and I was delighted with the interesting food and impeccable service.

Four nights at the new Urban Hotel – 14th Lane was a lesson in superb hospitality. This venture by Janet and Vicki has been expertly designed and created with a thought given to every aspect. All the rooms are exquisite and they have expertly fashioned a beautiful boutique hotel that New Zealand need a lot more of .

Before heading south Christchurch, we have one more day and night. This was our second day on the water and I hired the launch Lady Karen with Skipper Gordy once again to take us up Queen Charlotte sound to Furneaux lodge at the top of Endeavour inlet. We had a terrific family day with him a few years back and I was thrilled he could be with my group.

Once again the day was perfectly, calm and sunny. We had a birthday girl on board and Claire couldn’t have had better surroundings to celebrate her 86thbirthday. A Chacuterie lunch with fresh baguettes followed by French fruit tarts (loved that bakery) along with wine from Vavasour. It was a fun day – I think most of us may have had a quick sleep when we arrived at Furneaux Lodge before Champagne and dinner. Most people here were walking the Abel Tasman track and in the morning it was busy with people preparing boots, packs and walking poles. We made a quick trip back to Picton by water taxi and started our journey to Christchurch down the Coast road. I was very keen to see the extent of the huge earthquake which closed the road for so very long. It has definitely changed – but the road is now amazing and it was obviously a mammoth effort to get it opened again. No trip down the coast ever goes by without a stop at ‘The Store’ at Kekerengu and we were in perfect time for lunch. 

Arriving in Christchurch by late in the afternoon at the new ‘Muse Art Hotel’ was just time enough for a quick drink before catching a taxi to my favourite Japanese suburban restaurant called kinji. It is always delicious, unpretentious and obviously very popular because it is always full.  

By the end of the night and a such lovely tour some of us enjoyed a late night whisky on the roof top bar in the hotel – With Christchurch glittering below we had lots to reminisce about over the past 10 days.

I had a very wonderful tour with an amazing group of impressive sparkling women. They were a delight to travel with and our 10 days together will provide lots of memories to look back on. 

Nelson / Marlborough March 2021

Nelson

Its taken some time to get the first of this lovely tours blogs up I’m afraid. An unexpected trip Melbourne to our granddaughters 2nd birthday and the imminent arrival of a new baby in Auckland.

I planned this tour in time for a peaceful quieter time of the year when the summer weather has receded a bit and Autumn is on its way. The winds have died down and the heat is not so extreme.

My 10-day tour to one of my favourite regions in New Zealand couldn’t have been at a better time. Although as I keep telling all my tour groups I always request good weather and its surprising how often I get it. My group comprised of only 6 after a couple of cancellations at the last minute. Along with an Auckland Covid lockdown and re-arranging transport in the last week prior to the tour, it was anxious and the all clear only became clear days before departure.

I used the very comfortable mini Van from my last tour. Its soft large leather seats are so comfortable and Kim from Iconic tours in Dunedin rented it to me for the week. A few years ago I did do my ‘P’ licence which puts me in the driver’s seat for the tour. One of my flatmates Sally put me up at her gorgeous house and garden in Hororata and it turned out to be a 7-hour drive though to Nelson over the Lewis Pass with lots of stops for endless road works. It even took an hour to get from Brightwater into our accommodation for the next 3 nights at Sails in Nelson!!  The spacious rooms and a wonderful motel manager – that couldn’t do enough for you made our introduction to a new tour easy and comfortable. I knew four of my ladies from previous tours, three from Auckland, 1 Tutakaka, 1 Wellington and even 1 from Blenheim who just wanted a new experience.  

It was an easy walk down Trafalgar St to a welcome glass of bubbles by the Matai River and a few blocks on to ‘Arden’ Restaurant. I was more than happy to go with chef’s choice. Usual tour rules apply which means we can only drink wine from the region and choose local food. 

Two full days in Nelson started with breakfast out each day. The tour began well with two stand out visits. Firstly, to my dear friend Christine Boswijk, who is one of New Zealand’s outstanding ceramic artists. She is no longer working on her mammoth installations that she created for many years but is immersed in her garden. Instead translating her artistic flair with plants, spaces and an abundance of vegetables and fruit trees. She lives with her equally creative husband Patrick and between them they had their property looking perfect. Poor Patrick had been on the end of the water blaster and Christine had made club sandwiches, a huge chocolate roulade oozing with whipped cream and her special strong coffee. 

She walked us around the garden and it was very inspiring to see and feel her passion as she talked about her favourite roses – Mutabilis, Anne Endt and General Galieni and how she created her garden spaces. Christine’s daughter Kirsten is now creating her own fabulous pottery – all in pastel shades. It compliments Christine’s work and yet has a fineness and detail that is very different and totally beautiful. We were pleased to be able to purchase 

Mapua is 5 minutes down the road and after our rather decadent morning tea we were happy with a slice of Pizza and for some a glass of wine. 

My friends Leanne and Lou joined us for the morning and lunch and on the other side of Mapua Leanne has recently moved with her partner Neil to a property with a commanding view of the Tasman Bay. Leanne has so many skills and in the tidiest studio I have ever seen which is full of containers with her collections from her antique hunts, she has created a unique exclusive business making of the most exquisite broaches using old ribbons, medals, badges – all old and natural, using the treasures in her boxes.  ‘Eye and Behold’ is the name of Leanne’s jewellery and now she is creating pieces of jewellery using collections from the local Kina beach, carving and embedding treasures into stones.  I know some of my ladies want to commission Leanne to create a family broach using their historical medals and jewellery. 

Hopgoods has long been at the top for consistently good food and dining in Nelson. Again a set menu provided a delicious selection of locally inspired dishes which we accompanied  with the acclaimed Neudorf wines. My husband Philip flew in tonight and managed to arrive in time to join us for dinner.

Day 2 in Nelson started with breakfast at the Suter Art gallery which had just held Christine’s ‘Surreal exhibition’ – celebrating 4 decades of her work. Sadly, it ended the previous week, but we were very excited to see Kirsten and Leeane’s work for sale. 

Saturday morning is market day in Nelson so, before heading to lunch in the Moutere hills everyone had a chance to spend time in the Suter, walk in the gardens next door and wander through the market. 

 On the first night while eating at Arden the lovely Mary Gavin spotted me and came in to say hello. She was walking past and notices a group in the window that reminded her of her tour to Italy/France with me several years before… then she noticed me sitting on a bar stool paying the bill. It was so good to see her and although I had intended making contact it was a lovely surprise. Mary is involved with the historical house Broadgreen in Stoke and she comes with a vast knowledge of the Nelson region. So… she became my guide for the afternoon and helped tremendously put Nelson into context through its history and life as it is today as a fast growing busy city. As s we drove out to our lunch booking at Forsters in the Moutere hill’s Mary had the front seat and microphone. 

Lunch couldn’t have been better. We were joined by Leanne and Neil and sat at a long table in the shade of a very large tree. We all had the signature long boards with 5 delectable tapas which as you can see by the photos were beautifully presented and delicious, as was desert, but we shared that. Don’t visit this region without going here. The service, friendly staff, food and wine – along with resplendent company made for the perfect long lunch.

Before our return to Nelson the little Moutere village is always worth a visit and a late afternoon stop at our friends Rebecca and Petes Truffery, where they grow truffles successfully for sale in NZ. They have a vast collection of trees which surround the citrus, fig and fruit orchards and Rebecca’s comprehensive vegetable garden. Sitting in the garden with a glass of local Rose was rather enjoyable and we reluctantly left only to have an OK meal at the local Italian food store. It was a busy Saturday night and after a big day a quiet meal and an early night was appreciated. 

This tour includes two excursions on the water and today we travel the length of the Abel Tasman National park by water taxi. But, you can never leave Nelson without a meal at the iconic Boatshed and breakfast this morning was in the glorious sun watching the energetic Nelsonian’s swim, paddleboard and Kayak in the harbour. Some felt inclined to start the day with a Mimosa and the menu included such specialties as whitebait omelette and Smoked fish and potato hash cake.

 The Abel Tasman National Park is usually heaving with ocean kayakers and trampers at this time of the year. It is noticeably quiet in Kaiteriteri where we board our large virtually empty water taxi to Awaroa. I did ayak this once with my daughter Hannah when she was in year 12 on her Outdoor Education elective. But, this time I get the comfort of Awaroa lodge and don’t have to endure sleeping on the ground. 

The lodge sits by itself in the bush a short walk along the beach where the water taxi drops you off. Bags were taken directly to our rooms and it’s a lovely introduction walking through the native bush to the lodge entrance. I remember this lodge years ago. The lunch restaurant full of people that’s seem to come out of nowhere. It still has an exclusive feel about it but, needs someone with flair and creativity to give it a distinctive lodge feel. We had time for a walk along the estuary past the airfield and holiday batches before dinner. It’s very quiet and the birds are glorious. 

A day reading and enjoying the peacefulness would be lovely but not a tour activity. On our return back to Kaiteriteri I had a little surprise installed and instead of taking the water taxi all the way back we stopped at Bark Bay and boarded a catamaran.  It was a bit of a shocker for everyone but, what a fun experience and gave us a slower trip to explore the coastline and watch the sea life especially the cute little seals.