Dusky Sound 2020
Its taken a little time to get this rather long blog up, but it was one of life’s Silver Linings and an example of how we must plan NZ adventures.
This trip is I knew was going to be whole lot of Firsts – however it turned out to be a whole lot more than I expected.
First Helicopter flight.
First visit to Fiordland’s Dusky Sound. The longest and most extensive fiord in fiordland at 40 kilometres in length.
First time staying on a ship for 5 days and nights. (called Flightless )
First time in many years that I got to spend time with my brother Brian and sister Wendy for any period of time, along with our partners Philip, Peter and Julie. We also had Brian’s business partner Murray and his wife Helen.
Its also a few and only first birthdays that need celebrating – Brian was 60 in May, Philip, Me and Helen all have the big 65ths this year and lucky Helen during our voyage.
Our trip was organised by Brian, after meeting the crew and owners of ‘Pure Salt’ at the Auckland boat show. Choosing a date that suited us all for a 5 night adventure into the remote Dusky sound secured our booking. I was immediately impressed with the staff at our early morning rondevue at the Te Anau airfield. Two helicopters transported us along with luggage and our ‘necessary’ requirements over Lake Manapouri, through a narrow ‘V’ in the mountains called ‘Centre Pass’ to a neat landing on the rocks on the edge Supper Cove – ensuring we had enough room to disembark unload. The previous trip people arrived by tender and basically it was a clean swap.
Our home away from home for the next 5 days is called ‘Flightless.’ An ex navy ship, once called the Moa. It can actually take 12. But, our private booking means we have the boat to ourselves.
It doesn’t take long to become acquainted with our crew and to realise they are special people – all here not only as a job but because they love this region and it show’s. Their enthusiasm, resourcefulness and help is infectious and appreciated by us all and over the next few days as we participated in activities that became new ‘firsts ‘ for us all.
Pete was our captain and he has a cool comforting knowledge of the ship the fiordland coastline.
Anna – our little dynamo, who’s wide range of skills and knowledge meant she was in the water with the divers, our walking guided historian, our daily itinerary organiser and constant cleaner.
Courtney rarely left the galley and her imaginative, ingenious dishes were absolutely delicious – every meal and every day.
Chris – Our boatman – the guy that had to squeeze us into our wetsuits, bait the fishing lines, diver and like everyone else was always happy, helpful and funny.
Day 1: Saturday: Our earlier arrival due to the imminent weather forecast, by my ‘first’ helicopter ride into Dusky sound which meant we had a full day of immersion into this surreal world surrounded by shades of green that covered the hillsides from the tip of the hills to the water edge. By midday it felt like 3.30 in the afternoon. Acheron Falls like all waterfalls was pretty gorgeous and Pete managed to nudge the boat virtually underneath the flowing water. It didn’t take long to find a spot to get the fishing rods over the boat. The small Jack Russels were the only catch and all went back to the sea. Pete steamed down Dusky sound through the Acheron Passage into Breaksea Sound to Vancouver Arm. The Sky is moody and morose looking and decidely temperamental.
Morning Tea: Ginger Muffins
Lunch: Blue Cheese and Broccoli Soup with rolls. Lasange
Pre Dinner: Platter Fresh Spring Rolls and Sushi,
Dinner: Vension Fillet with salads
Day 2: Sunday: While sailing down Vancouver Arm to Gilbert Islands our water crew prepared us for Diving, Snorkling and Fishing. It was the first time the kayakers and divers had to wear the thick 7 ml wet suits and I must say it was hilarious watching them squeeze, pull and ooze their way into the super tight wet suits. Philip and I chose to stay and fish on the boat and I must say, I was happy with the decision given the wind whipping around the corner. Brian is our only tank diver, along with Anna from Pure Salt. They headed off to the depths to get crayfish. Pete, Julie and Murray Scuba dived and I believe saw beautiful shoals of Tarakihi and lots of Kina on the rocks. Wendy and Helen Kayaked and although it was calm to begin with they must have been quite concerned as the boat sailed past and they had to paddle furiously in a wicked wind to catch up. Oh yeah – 18 Crays plus Julie got harvested some very big mussels. The legal limit is 12 crayfish, so 6 of these beauties were lucky to be put back into the ocean.
During the afternoon we accompanied Anna on a walk through dense bush to Moose Lake. She needed a GPS and we followed Herrick Greek for an hour and half. Although it was wet, muddy and hailing at times the native forest was stunningly beautiful. I have never seen carpets of moss and lichen that covered absolutely everything. They ranged in size, colour and shape and as we reached the lake there was a garden of the most intriguing foliage covered tree stumps . It reminded me of clipped box hedge shapes but were immaculately shaped and trim.
Red deer are throughout the park and in the early 1900’s there was two attempts to release Moose. Unbelievably the government released 10 Moose – four bulls and six cows from Canada. Sadly, they didn’t flourish and were shot by hunters. But, many believe they still exist and on our return we passed the Bivy of the Mooseman who spent extensive time trying to locate the Moose. It looked like the most uncomfortable, wickedly cold site. Our evening gave us a chance to celebrate Helens 65th birthday with a few bottles of very nice bubbly and a special meal of crayfish. The anchorage was in Wet Jacket Arm. This arm was named by Captain Cook after his Lieutenant Pickersgill got caught in a storm while exploring and came back in no good plight. The Arm is now reserve with no fishing allowed.
Morning Tea;
Lunch: Frittata, Foccacia,
Pre-Dinner – Beautiful Platter
Dinner: Champagne, Crayfish, Kina Sauce, Garlic Butter, Salads – Aubergine /
Day 3: Monday : I don’t know how to start and describe another amazing ‘First.’ Waking up at our mooring at the end of Wet Jacket Arm to snow down to the water level and infact snow lying on the water. It was perfectly calm, quiet and still and very very beautiful. Julie, Brian and I took this rare and surreal opportunity to kayak in the snow covered water, surrounded by the white coated native bush. As you planted your paddle in the water it made a slice in the snow and the canoe created a trail through the water. We all took many many photos and paddled down the arm to be eventually collected by the Flightless. By this time the wind had picked up and we were bitterly cold and frozen to the bone. One of the real joys of this ship is a hot tub on the top deck. We immersed ourselves in the gorgeous, relaxing hot water, as long as you avoided the snow falling in huge lumps from above .
Morning Tea Scones
Lunch – Crayfish Curry, Rice – Chili Oil on the side – Flat Bread
Dinner Smoked Beef, Yams, Salad with crispy parsnip slices, Quinia Salad
Apple Crumble and the best Custard
Captain Cook and his ship Resolution harboured at Anchor Point for 5 weeks in 1773. Necessary time to rest his men and restock with food and water. During this time his men chartered Dusky sound and he provided NZ’s first brewery for his men. This was three years after he spotted Five Fingers point at the entrance to Dusky Bay but as ‘Dusk was gathering he decided it was unwise to venture into the unknown – which seems an anomaly since this is what he did. The Cove is very nostalgic and was also the site where the ships Astronomer felled an acre trees to obtain and uninterrupted view for his observation. Its sits on a point so he could fix the latitude and longitude points. The NZ Survey ship Monowai worked here in 1995 and found they were almost perfect. I am surprised with the extensive history Fiordland has. From early explorer’s, our own Maori population and the hardy sealers, whalers and immigrants. Anna’s history knowledge is impeccable and she told a good story.
Day 4 Tuesday: A Maori family lived in Dusky sound during the time of Captain Cooks visit and he named the Island they lived on ‘Indian’ Island. They lived under a huge rock face and after a short wander from the waters edge we found the dry sheltered spot amongst the snowy native bush.
After a morning tea we were back in the tender to visit Waka Cove where Maori could use as a safe harbour for their Waka’s. Complete with some large holes . There are many theories as to whether they were for storage, cooling or cooking. The Weather is still blasting across with snow showers, hail and rain. Peter our captain is doing his best to keep us out of the weather consequently, heading out to the coast is out of the question. We can see the huge swells and waves in the distance.
So…. another few first’s for me in the afternoon;
Putting on a 7 ml wet suit for the’ first’ time was a huge rigmarole – full bottoms with shoulder straps and a hoody top that clipped up under your crotch. The process involved getting into a ‘shroud’ toweling hoody – naked. Soaking the wet suit and yourself in warm very soapy water, then easing on the bottoms, pulling it up under your shroud. Then with the help of Chris putting in your arms up to your armpits and going through a ritual of holding your breath, lifting your arms high while Chris pulled the remaining wet suit over your head. Coming up gasping and wriggling around to make it all feel comfortable. Warmed soapy gloves and booties completed the ensemble. I was warm and cosy in my slimy suit and not sure if we look like tele tubbies or Ninga Turtles.
While Brian and Chris headed off the tender with spear guns . Wendy, Julie and I snorkeled looking for Paua and shoals of fish. I was surprised to see the numbers of Kina and a pink shelled mollusk which we have ascertained is a Cooks Turban.
The fishermen on the boat did well while we were away and caught 6 good blue cod for dinner.
We are enjoying our champagne and gins before dinner and Courtney always comes up with a treat. Today it is roasted Blue cod wings coated with a spicy sauce.
Meals are always outside on the deck and most days it has been snowing and hailing. There is an infra red heater at one end of the table and Hannah’s Surf Life Saving long coat with ‘Cully ‘ printed on the back has been invaluable. The view out the back of the boat is stunning and very special to be dining in this exceptional dining room.
Lunch: Seafood Broth – Soba Noodles Seaweed Rolls
Dinner: Panfried Blue Cod, Caesar Salad, Roasted Beetroot and walnut Salad Roasted Kumara. Delicious Chocolate and Berry Cake.
Day 5: Wednesday: The mountain tops are thick with snow and the weather is still persisting with very chilly temperatures and squally showers rolling through consistently. A fisherman passing by commented it is evidently 3 degrees and 3 degrees warmer than yesterday. Today we can see two other charter boats in the sound, ( Fiordland Jewell and the Real journeys Wanderer) keeping out of the rough weather on the coast as well.
Little islands dot this part of the sound and while Anna takes Brian for his last dive we take to the Kayaks into Luncheon Cove. Anchor Island sits at the top of the cove and is famous for being predator free and home to Kakapo, kiwis and more birdlife. The rats, stoats and possums are vicious and destructive throughout our native forests and considering they can swim from one island to another the job done by Doc and companies like Pure Salt on Long Island is magnificent.
5 of us dropped into dinghy’s and paddled in and around the islands. At the top of Luncheon Cove we were entertained by the cutest baby seals playing on a rock and diving around an old rope. Luncheon Cove is sheltered and the water was crystal clear.Consequently, we saw lots of ropes and even a sky dish where fishermen can obviously shelter from the weather and watch the rugby!!! There was also two substantial storage sheds complete with helicopter pads where the tons of crayfish are flown to the export packers in Bluff. A helicopter did come is while we were moored and shattered the quietness briefly.
Luncheon Cove and Anchor Island was the site of the first house and Ship Building in NZ 1792. (20 years after Cook departed). The Britannia (not Royal) sailed into the cove and left 12 men with provisions for 12 months. The plan was to build a house and a boat in case no one came back to get them. However Captain Raven did come back but was disappointed with the 4,500 seal skins the men had cured !! Two boats arrived 3 years later, called the Endeavour and the Fancy with 243 people of which they had 40 stowaways including one woman. Tragically the Endeavour was in such bad shape it was stripped and left to rot. I suppose someone came to retrieve the passengers including the stowaways.
Time on our last day for a last fish and Brian and Philip were delighted with their Groper. This meant pre- dinner delights tonight were Sashimi, Kokoda and the prepared paua, all the while sitting in a very calm and stunning Shark Cove. But not before another ‘first’ experience …. and probably a stupid one. Jumping off the boat with Brian and Pete into the rather 11 deg water.
Morning Tea: Cheese and Salami Scones
Lunch: Seafood Chowder, Tomato Bread and steamed cockles.
Pre Dinner: Groper sashimi, Kokoda with fried, Groper pieces, panfried Pau slices
Dinner: Deep fried panko crumbed crayfish ( 1st), roasted potatoes, broccoli and feta salad, cauliflower, courgette and spinach salad.
I did ask everyone what were their ‘Firsts’ : Fishing in the Snow, Snow lying on the water , snorkeling in the snow, hail and rain, jumping into 11 deg water, getting naked into a wet suit, turning down Crayfish offered to us from a fisherman. For Brian – More crayfish in two days than he has caught in his life and getting two Crays on a free dive .
Another unusual first for Fiordland : We didn’t need 3 items from our bags – Sunscreen, Sunglasses and Insect repellent!!! The joys of extreme weather.
Being a foodie I must mention the food : Courtney’s skills were widespread and creative. Everyday she wowed us with wonderful dishes based around the bounty of the sea. But we did have delicious Venison and thanks to Anna – smoked beef. Pure Salt works on a no wastage philosophy. We caught enough fish, muscles, clams, paua and crayfish to eat. Courtney made bread daily, a morning treat and salads were creative, innovative and interesting. She encouraged us to try Kina and seaweed and we all acknowledged and appreciated that she rarely left the galley all day , but every day was a treat.
We had a marvellous trip that goes into the life time memory box. To share the drama, challenges and experiences with my family and Brians friends was brilliant along with the ‘Pure Salt’ Staff . It is obvious they have a significant work culture, showed discretion and just wanted everyone to have the best time.
What a wonderful adventure you had-right on our back door. We have been there several times and appreciated the magic of the area.
Happy belated 65th to you!
Thanks Liz,
I am at our Tarras house quite bit now and would love to catch up.
XXX Jude