Less than a days drive from Venice are the Italian Lakes and we soon pass the largest of the lakes – Lake Guarda. After a lunch stop in Verona being acquainted with it’s Roman past and rich family history, we have three nights on Lake Como followed by 3 nights on Lake Maggiore which ensures we have our fill of their beauty and unique lifestyles.
Lake Como is a spectacular place. It’s less than one hour from Milan and is the glacier lake running beneath the Italian Alps. Small towns and villages, stunning villas and hotels line the waters edge up from the city of Como on either side of the lake. The air is thick with humidity and the temperatures are in the early 30’s .
We spend our two free days doing completely different ‘things ‘ Firstly our day on the lake is started with a new visit for me to Villa Balbienello. It is located on a wooded promontory, offering a spectacular view of Lake Como. This elegant, romantic 18th century mansion and its magnificent garden has a long history from its original Cardinals. It was brought back into modern times when Guido Monzino, entrepreneur, collector and passionate traveler, chose it to preserve the memories of his adventures, which included being the first Italian to climb Mount Everest and adventures to the North Pole. He was immensely wealthy and had exquisite taste. On his early death he gave it to FAI – Italian form of Historic Places trust. FAI has been managing the Villa since 1988, preserving its spirit and taking care of its magnificent garden. Trees are pruned into unusual shapes, there are romantic views, avenues lined with statues, panoramic terraces and abundant flowers. Perfect for the many weddings held here.
It was a fabulous visit – But, seemed all wrong when he evidently only spent 365 days in his life time in the Villa. However, I am so glad we can now visit such an extraordinary property. From the heavy chandeliers, antique furniture and his collections in the house to the Ficus growing up the outside walls which looked like snakes, it was thrilling few hours.
Some people may know the villa for the filming location of : Star Wars: Episode II—Attack of the Clones and Casino Royale which were both shot here.
Our slow day on the lake continued onto the forever beautiful Villa Carlotta and a visit to Bellagio, before a boat trip back down the lake to our hotel in Moltrasio and trying to pick out which Villa belonged to George Cluny!!!
It is said here in Italy that people live their lives better than we do. It’s an older country, and they’ve learned to celebrate dinner and lunch, whereas we sort of eat as quickly as we can to get through it. For some there is an infatuation with take away coffees, uber eats and fast food and certainly means we don’t sit down and enjoy the time or the company and over the next few days we enjoy some of the best long slow meals on tour.
Firstly, my friend Alessio from ‘La Baia’ restaurant – which is within walking distance of our hotel overlooking Lake Como. I don’t even discuss a menu with him and he is so delighted to have my group of New Zealanders each year. His staff come from Italy, Sri Lanka and Nepal and they produce stunning food from the best of local ingredients and all work in an extremely hot very small kitchen. Summer truffles with egg, pillows of ravioli filled with aubergine and parmesan foam, Veal cheeks slowly cooked in Valpolicella wine, plus a heavenly chocolate dessert were all on the menu this year and believe me we were very full by the end of the night.
Our second day couldn’t have been more different. Thunder and rain greeted us in Milan. Starting with a visit to Leonardo Da Vinci’s fresco of the Last Supper and a once in a life time introduction for everyone. We walked through to the Centre of Milan and the Duomo, past vast opulent apartment buildings created in the Napoleon era. I am always intrigued by the vast spaces inside the buildings which are privately separated by enormous intricate gates. Shopping in the centre of Milan has that ‘ I can’t afford anything ‘ but looking, sensing and taking in the well dressed Milanese is a great pastime of its own.
Lake Como has always been residence to the rich and famous and to the families who have had their large villas for generations.
Shortly after losing his prime-ministership in the July 1945 elections, Winston Churchill who was stunned by the defeat and feeling a strain in his home life, left for an extended painting holiday on the shores of Lake Como. He flew to Italy with his entourage—his wife, daughter, physician, valet, secretary, and detective—in a Villa belonging to Field Marshal Harold Alexander, the first Earl Alexander of Tunis. The party stayed as Alexander’s guests at Villa Le Rose, in the tiny village of Moltrasio, a home Churchill described as a “small palace …the last word in modern millionairism.”
So Moltrasio has also had famous visitors and our little family run hotel wasn’t a small palace but had all the features of feeling ‘At Home’. Although we had no time for painting or reading too many books we did experience the Como spell and I am sure the ‘want’ to return.
