Like most ancient cities they inevitably come with an old town and Antalya is no different. Before Antalya became one of Turkey’s top summer resort towns, full of extreme hotels for the mainly Russian tourists, it was the ancient city of Attalia, founded during the Hellenistic period, later becoming part of the Roman Empire. As such, Antalya’s old town is important and its most important sights portray its rich past. It sits on the cliffs of Antalya’s ancient Roman Harbor – where now you can hire a deck chair and swim. The temperatures here are very high which is usual for the summer months.
Starting at the neighborhood’s grand ruin, Hadrians Gate – built in AD 130 to commemorate the visit of Roman Emperor Hadrian. I am surprised wandering around the narrow cobblestoned streets of Kalieci the number of Ottoman-era houses and can now admire many of them restored and turned into small very smart hotels.
Our hotel Kaucuk Residence is run by the effervescent Rengan and is indeed 2 old Ottoman houses, cleverly amalgamated. It comes complete with its own Roman ruin in the dining room below a glass floor. Consequently, all the rooms are different shapes and sizes. I love this unique style of boutique hotel full of character and Rengan ensures we have attentive service. Plus, it provides a private quiet space behind the front gate and high walls where you can swim , dine out side or enjoy a wine or two.
Rengan spoilt us with a Typical Turkish meal using old Ottoman recipes and after an impressive thunder and lightening storm we could still enjoy a beautiful evening .
The road to Antalya from Kusadasi took us firstly for one night to the western Turkish tourist town called Pamukkale. It is well known for the mineral-rich thermal waters flowing down white travertine terraces on a nearby hillside and immediately sitting behind it on the hill side is Hierapolis, an ancient Roman spa city founded around 190 B.C. The plus 40 deg temperatures meant no one was very keen on sitting in the hot thermal water but cooler pools at our hotel provided a welcome relief.
Stopping for coffee and lunch is always a different and today stops included a Knife shop !!!- where we provided a very good sales day, lunch where the wonderful roasted lamb was cooked whole on a spit outside and the pide bread was to die for and late in the afternoon it was Turkish coffee all round under cool shades and surrounded with colourful geraniums planted in old olive tins.
On my tour reading list is a book called ‘Birds without Wings’ by Louis de Bernieres . It is an absolute favourite of mine. The theme of the story covers the impact of religious intolerance, over-zealous nationalism, and the war that often results. It is set in a fictional village near Fethiye, the ruins of which still exist today. Karakoy was once a thriving Greek village, this town of over one thousand houses, two churches, fourteen chapels, and two schools, was completely deserted in 1923 when the Greek inhabitants living there, along with a vast number of Greeks living throughout Turkey were deported to Greece through a massive governmentpopulation exchange between the two countries following the Turkish war of independence.
The eerie deserted village is now home to a few artisans and as we clambered up the paths and into ruined buildings, that were once churches, houses and schools it was very unnerving.Three of us were shown into the remains of a little house, almost intact with its once beautiful wooden paneling, window seat in front of a sunny window and elaborate corner fireplace. I love this visit, but this is not the only village in Turkey which was dealt the same fate and tragedy.
For the next two nights the mediterranean town of Kas is a welcome favourite. We eat at Alison and Hasan’s preferred restaurant Bachu. I have my go to towel shop run by a trio of gorgeous brothers and we spend one of my best relaxing days sailing on the Mediterranean in a Gulet – swimming, chilling out and visiting the cute village of Kecova. It’s a memorable day and a change from the bus and visits. Lolling around in the salty water is certainly fabulous..
The evenings are balmy and entice you into a pre dinner cocktail before dinner on a terrace waiting the sun go down. Sounds horrible but I assure you it’s not hard..
Another lunch, another visit – Always different and always hilarious. Before arriving in Antalya, lunch is set on low tables siting above a stream at a trout fishery . The trees provided a welcome cool canopy and shade. Cute little ducklings paddle under out tables and love being fed. My group is spread out – some chose to sit a ‘real ” table while others enjoyed the low tables over the water.
Antalya has many highlights but, a morning Leather Shopping at Punto (another of Hasan’s contacts) is so much fun. Many chose beautiful jackets and we always make sure there is a chance to find something extreme for a group photo.
