Choosing accommodation 3 days in advance includes the odd interesting choice. Like… Thinking a quiet time back by the seaside would be fabulous but, forgetting the Italian summer holidays are over and consequently the beaches are deserted, even though it is still 30 deg. Although we were led to believe it was 1 hour out of Rome maybe 2 hours would have been more realistic.
The stunning modern hotel with a deck overlooking the beach, a wonderful spa pool on the top deck where you could watch the sun go down and an evening meal in the Michelin 1 restaurant, nearly made up for the lack of people.
We had a couple of visits to tick off. Very sadly the gardens of Ninfa were only open two days in the month and we had missed them by ages. Nonetheless our long desire to visit Villa d’Este at Tivoli was possible and the drive through Kiwifruit growing country was insightful as the vines hugged villages and blanketed the landscape on either side of the once again very bumpy road.
Firstly, we spent a couple of hours exploring the vast landscape of Hadrian’s Villa which sits below modern-day Tivoli. It was a retreat from Rome for the Emperor Hadrian who lived for 62 years 76 – 138 AD. He supposedly didn’t like his palace in Rome and headed to the cooler hills to relax and rule. With over 200 acres it would have been self-sufficient with small farms providing all the needs for the thousands of people required to support the wealthy Romans. Consequently, they did not need to import food. Today it is a UNESCO world heritage site. The emperor had a passion for architecture and as we waked in awe around the sculptural remains, you could imagine the vast complex of buildings, water features, vast landscaping and monumental features that must have filled the countryside.
We took a couple of attempts finding the impossibly difficult parking in Tivoli and as luck has it – someone was wanting to pullout just at the right time.
Villa d’Este is a 16th-century Villa In Tivoli and is famous for its terraced hillside Italian Renaissance garden, but especially for its profusion of fountains. It is also a UNESCO world heritage site and although we were concerned about the number of people in the garden, it was pleasant with the sound of running water all around you. The garden is on a very steep hillside and the many fountains are a remarkable spectacle. The villa was originally a Roman ruin, then the site of a Benedictine order. This time is wasn’t a wealthy Roman Emperor but wealthy church cardinals who “required’ large estates and spent vast sums of money creating exceptionally luxurious villas and gardens. It’s pretty amazing that it is still in a beautiful condition and it was a very lovely visit.
It might have been a Michelin 1 dinner on our first night but our second night was relaxed and we were very happy enjoying our own picnic and a glass of wine on the hotel deck after our huge day visiting and walking many thousands of steps. Plus tackling the long return drive in the traffic.
A day in Rome travelling by train was a lovely respite for Phil and once again we got the lucky park when someone was just leaving as we arrived in the over packed car park. Plus… the train left 5 minutes later… good timing !!!
We have been to Rome many times before and after our slow sojourn in Umbria and Tuscany we had a need to investigate and learn more about the Etruscan Civilisation, which was very evident in these regions and thrived way back in the 6th Century BC. An exhilarating taxi ride took us to the museum located in Villa Giulia at the bottom of the Borghese gardens. It was an insightful visit away from the thronging crowds and full of exquisite artefacts. Three hours later it was a lovely cool walk back under the umbrella pines in the Borghese gardens before heading down the steps at Piazza del Poppolo to take Philip to my favourite Mozzarella Bar Obika for ‘another’ essential’ long lunch.
Rome is such a gorgeous city and everywhere you turn is another monument, Roman ruin or antiquity, all just sitting amongst daily life. Strolling back to the train in the late afternoon helps make you appreciate the historical enormity of Rome and its ever lasting beauty.
This has been quite a history lesson over our last 3 days in Italy, although the whole country really lives with these antiques.
Our return flight to New Zealand departs at 10pm and our last visit on the list is the ruins of Ostia Antica. It is perfectly sited 20 minutes from Fiumicino airport and our drive took us up the coast route, past what we must say was some of the most gruesome seaside areas we have ever seen but, also through older elegant towns like Nettuno and Anzio.
Ostia was founded in the 4th century BC and was the vital port controlling access to Rome by river. Sitting on the top row of the ancient arena, I can see over the 43 hectares of brick ruins. It’s hard to imagine 2,000 years ago, when this was ancient Rome’s seaport and a thriving commercial centre for over 60,000 people. The remains of docks, warehouses, apartment flats, mansions, shopping arcades, and baths, give a peek at Roman lifestyles and there is evidence of beautiful mosaic tiles everywhere, with fish and nautical themes. Being so close to the sea meant salt production became an important trading item and added to the wealth of Ostia. It was a remarkable visit and an insight into another world that was so successful and vital to Rome success .
Our slow trip through Tuscany and Umbria has been an insightful adventure. Pre-planning came in the extent of organising accommodation 2-3 days ahead, spontaneous meals in local trattorias and many visits which challenged our limited knowledge of history and language. We have driven through vast areas of maize, sunflowers, tobacco, olives, grapevines and even kiwifruit, tackled steep medieval villages and walked our legs off most days.
It was certainly a travel adventure and provided precious time to meet the locals, chat about their lifestyle and take up many of their superb suggestions.
Arrivevderci
