Colours of cream, beige and the softest of pinks make up the surreal landscape of Cappadocia. The erosion over millions of years has created tall fairy chimneys, some which look positively phallic, although most statuesque and elegant. But, human hands performed equally incredible works here. The rocky wonderland is honeycombed with a network of human-created caves; living quarters, places of worship, stables, and storehouses were all dug into the soft stone. In fact, tunnel complexes formed entire towns with as many as eight different stories hidden underground. The soft sandstone can be carved easily and among the caves are thousands of pigeon holes which once housed millions of pigeons which were protected for the important fertiliser industry. Sadly, modern fertilisers have eliminated the pigeons and destroyed the industry.
The cave homes were cool in the summer, warm in the winter and provided good shelter not only for the local inhabitants but their animal’s as well. However, governments have addressed the poor living and sanitary conditions and the locals were rehoused in government provided accommodation.
Many of the disused caves have now been renovated into smart eclectic hotels with cave bedrooms. Throughout Cappadocia the cave bedrooms are transporting guests to a luxurious insight into the atmosphere of cave living. The weather temperatures for us are well into the 30’s and yet the rooms at the beautiful Asawari Suites hotel are cool, airy and quiet and provide excellent sleeping conditions after our busy days in the heat. Surrounded by the tufa rock and with marble floor tiles, Hasan’s nephew Baran has created a gorgeous hotel sanctuary with at least 4 courtyards on varying levels for outside living and to enjoy everything from breakfast, coffee breaks and the mandatory evening drinks. Huge umbrellas shade the many tables dotted around and the clever artistic atmosphere certainly encourages everyone to relax, slow down and enjoy.
Cappadocia has everything covered and we are here to experience the regions identity and participate in the big-ticket items too, like:
The absolutely, essential, obligatory balloon ride. Departing at 4.30 am three of my group were picked up and driven to the launch field to watch their 100-foot-tall balloon fill with air. Boarding the basket with enough room for 16 people the balloon lifts off and the distance between them and the earth increases to reach the cruising level of 1,000 feet. Most mornings, if the weather conditions are favourable over 100 balloons fill the air over Goreme and Urgup and provide a bird’s-eye view of the incredible lunar landscapes, stone-cut churches, volcanic spires, and multi-coloured “fairy chimneys” that make up Cappadocia.
Watching the mesmerizing, whirling dance of the Sufi sect is a must visit before heading out for dinner. A mystical branch of Islam, was created in Konya 700 years ago by the Persian poet Rumi. They believe the ritual of repeatedly spinning allows them to forget their earthly body and move closer to God. “Dervish” is the Arabic word for Sufi and the men participating in the ritual were called “whirling dervishes” by early European travellers.
No trip to Turkey would be complete without a visit to a carpet shop. In the tourist town of Goreme, Alison and Hasan’s good friend Ali entertains in his cool air-conditioned showroom offering us cool beers and espresso coffees. In his charming professional style, he explains the differences between carpet styles and how they are made. Are they constructed from cotton, silk or wool and are they superior because the prized lambs neck wool is used? Were they made by young women for their dowries and how to recognise a dowry rug. Did they come from Turkey, Iran, Egypt or other middle eastern countries and how to you tell if it’s a Chinese copy? Is it an Antique rug with its own story? By the time Ali is finished he has a mountain of rugs laid out in front of him. Then the fun begins as those wanting to purchase a rug get to rummage through the showroom upstairs and down and choose a piece for a lifetime that comes with its legal authorisation certificate.
The town of Avanos is located on the shore of the Red River which is the longest in Turkey, looping from the Black sea and back again. It is famous for pottery and craft making since the Hittite period. The reddish-brown clay harvested from the river is used in the workshops to make exquisite, elaborate handmade ceramics. We visited a very new museum which was dug out of the tufa rock over 5 years and it displayed an impressive collection of pieces dating back to 3000 BC. A brief demonstration from a potter and artists helped us understand the patience and expertise to make the large elaborate pieces.
The hot days were busy with a visit to the underground city of Kaymakli – a maze of levels that go 7 or 8 stories underground. The Unesco world heritage parks full of majestic rocks shaped by erosion. (one even looking like a Camel) But, there was time for Peter to have a Turkish haircut complete with flames up his nose and in his ears, a classy bit of shopping in a very new creative shop made up of cave rooms, complete with a roof top bar and a spell watching the game ‘OK’ played by men in every village, on outside tables under the shade of large plane trees. (I had to buy a set of my own). Our 3 days in Urgup was a cherished personal insight into Alison and Hasan’s world with the help and generosity of their friends and family.
Each night was a feast of local food, whether it was sitting beside the Red River in a fish restaurant or dining on a roof top restaurant as the sun went down or being totally spoilt at my dear friends Mehmet and Bathasens Fresco hotel, where they prepared a traditional stunning meal of soup, meze and lamb with noodles, all cooked in an original Tandoor oven.
I love the salty, white hard cheese, the use of thick delicious yogurt flavoured with the lovely smoky chilli or fresh dill, the ripest red tomatoes that taste of ‘tomato’ and the impressive inclusion of vegetables, especially eggplant, with every meal. The aroma of a charcoal barbecue wafted the air with mouth-watering smells of chargrilled meats, served with salads and fresh white fluffy bread when we stopped at a family run picnic area in the Pancarlik Valley. From Great grandmother (when she woke up ) to grandchildren everyone had a job and fussed over us to make sure our lunch was special.
It’s been another outstanding tour to Turkey with another equally outstanding tour group. Our days have been filled with hilarity at times, lots of laughter and an eagerness to learn and enjoy every visit. The Turkish people are so hospitable and desperately want to show off their diverse incredibly historic country. The Silk road from China to the Mediterranean was used to transport goods. It is dotted with old Caravanserai’s which had rooms for caravan members, fodder and resting places for animals and warehouses for storing goods. They were often in small fortresses with guards to protect the caravans from bandits. Many Fortresses are still found throughout Turkey on the old silk road. They were a days ride apart and created a safe haven to spend the night for travellers and their animals.
Turkey is still full of stunning safe haven’s, now in the form of impressive modern hotels and we need to be the travellers to fill them and learn a whole lot about the Turkish culture.
I end my blog of Turkey with a quote from Hatice, the lovely lady way back in Pergamom who served her homemade food to us for lunch.
My Country is wonderful and we are living in a place like heaven. We have so many different landscapes to share.