An afternoon visiting the Gallipoli Peninsula is a moving experience. Our guide for the next 4 days is Yeliz and we pick her up at the port of Eceabat on the Dardanelles. We then take the short drive to visit Anzac Cove and the cemeteries and memorials of Lone Pine and Chunuk Bair. It was raining and seemed even more solemn in the grey conditions. This year we visited the excellent Gallipoli Battle Museum which has been recently upgraded, including high tech, visual displays, and moving exhibits explained very well in English. It covered how World War I started from a decidedly Turkish perspective, and ended with the beginning of the Republic of Turkey and the Young Turks with Ataturk. But, there was an explicit message of hope for peace: that war is wrong and the Turks welcome the courageous people who tried to invade them as true friends, even going so far as to say those who died on their foreign soil were now sons of Turkey, to be taken care of like any other fallen soldier.
Crossing the Darnelles at the end of the day by ferry to Çanakkale for a one night stop is the only option and we have time in the evening for a delicious fish dinner and a walk along the bustling esplanade.
For the next three days Yeliz took us back 2.500 years and brought to life the impressive ruins of Pergamom, the famous site of Ephesus and the oldest of all Didyma and Priene, where Alexander the Great visited and had a temple named after him. Not only earthquakes destroyed these magnificent cities but their inevitable fate was due to the harbours silting up. Trading became too difficult and it created problems with mosquitos and malaria, subsequently forcing them to be abandoned.
Priene and Didyma are deserted and the eerie quietness in the intense heat gave me the sense that I was invading someone else’s world. From under her umbrella Yeliz described how these cities were planned and what everyday life was like for the thousands of residents. She told many stories of the Greek and Roman gods and their influence on everyone’s lives and wish I had a better understanding of classics. She is outstanding at her job. Guides here are highly educated with a degree including several languages, but Yeliz is also funny, caring and has a beautiful smile. We were indeed lucky and privileged to get to know her so well and immerse ourselves in the local cuisine, customs and culture of today’s Turkey.
Consequently, for 3 days in a row we lunched with Yeliz’s friends and contacts. In Pergamom it was lunch at a local restaurant run by women serving traditional homemade dishes using fresh local ingredients. Yoressel was thrilled to have foreigners in her busy restaurant where locals filled the tables plus many coming in for takeaways.
Sirince is one of my favourite village visits. Known for its Greek houses and fruit wines It sits high on the hills behind Ephesus, surrounded by olive trees and looks parched dry in the intense heat of the day. Chez Rumi opened a week earlier by Hayri, Nadir and Belma who were brought up here. Based on vegetables it was the best selection of Meze I have had in Turkey. Attention to detail – from the traditional tin plates, colourful painted chairs and decorated table tops, all set in a pretty courtyard garden with cool beer and delicious red wine. Involvement with locals epitomises my tours and finding this unique local Turkish experience is a real gem.
P.S – They also had a boutique hotel next door which was very gorgeous .
Our last day to Priene and Didyma was exceedingly hot and although it was election day in Turkey (when evidently you can’t serve alcohol ) we all enjoyed a cold beer with our plate of grilled chops for lunch . Always tasty here where meat is barbecued over hot embers. The selection of vegetables and fruit all over Turkey is staggering, which provides for a very healthy diet. Delicious thick yoghurt is served with everything. The only problem is, it’s so tasty you eat too much.
Our base for the last 3 nights was the beautiful city of Kusadasi. Sitting on the edge of the Agean sea it is popular for cruise ships and visitors. Our hotel has an infinity pool and it was the spot to be in the late afternoon for a swim, a quiet read and for the round of pre-dinner drinks.
Yeliz has given us a bottle of her fathers red wine in a coke bottle for a present, which she tells us is delicious.
So next stop I can report what it was like…
