A Dip into Brittany

Two nights in Brittany is not nearly enough. But, we did get to dip into the oyster loving region of France, not only to taste the oysters direct from the shell, (actually I think I was the only one) eat crepes and also to explore and enjoy St Malo. It is the perfect place to spend a day after visiting France’s most iconic tourist site – Mont Saint Michel. The enormous car parks lined with cars, bus’s and vans are rather scary. However, the shuttle bus system across the access causeway works perfectly and I think the many buses filled with chatting happy children were all enjoying a day at the beach under the enormous monastery which was towering above them siting high on its rock. It’s a bit of a test of stamina to arrive at the ticket office after a jostling walk through the narrow shopping street and a steep climb with lots of steps. Then… a further climb to the top before heading down through the many courtyards, chapels and monastic living quarters. The brick is austere and cold looking and feeding the fires which were the size of a small room must have been no mean feat. The views of course are outstanding and today the tide is out, so it is  sand as far as the eye can see. This is a very dangerous estuary and you definitely don’t want to be too far out when the fast-moving tide starts coming in. I think many people are here just to have a long lunch in one of the many restaurants perched on the town walls. There are even hotels here and I am sure the quietness after the hoards have left each evening must be alluring along with a peaceful early morning watching the sun come up.

We did get sun at Mont Saint Michel but that was the last we saw of it as the rain set in and the evening sky was lit up with lightning, the sound of loud thunder and followed by torrential rain showers. Our morning in St Malo started a little late and thankfully the rain halted for a couple of hours so we could enjoy the walk around the reconstructed city walls. St Malo was completely bombed in 1944 and unlike many villages destroyed by bombings during this time it was rebuilt on exactly the same model. It is very small and the narrow cobbled streets provide a treasure around every  corner – or for some its was an easy walk to continue on around the walls.

Todays delight and surprise was a quick visit to the stunningly gorgeous village of St Suliac. Damien my bus driver in Bayeux recommended making a detour on our way to our afternoon visit in Dinan. It is strictly controlled and the houses must stay in their original state. No garnish colours here but, it was hard to know what to take photos of first. The little windows were lined with decorative lace curtains and many houses were draped in fishing nets ready for the annual seafood festival. Fragrant roses dripped of the walls and tiny gardens adorned every spare space. It was absolutely beautiful, very small but very cute. Dinan is equally picturesque and our drive took us along the tidal Rance river which was full of every type of sailing boat you could imagine.

Normandy has once again been a delight, even if the weather was rather foggy. My love of gardens attracted me to this region. But, the simple always delicious french bread, my pain au raisin every morning to the delectable meals we had everywhere, including of course the gorgeous regional cheeses and famous cider meant everyday was a pleasure.

It seems a long time ago since starting the tour in Glasgow when we couldn’t get enough of the huge Scottish scallops. We had so many outstanding meals from fine dining in exclusive lodges to extra good fish and chips in St Andrews and even a mutton pie at the Edinburgh market.

My priority on this tour is to provide boutique, interesting, charming accommodation. It included a beautiful Victorian mansion hotel on Loch Long and the impressive Kinloch lodge on the Isle of Skye with perfect service to being a house guest with Graeme in Oban and four nights in the recently, absolutely stunningly refurbished Roxburghe hotel in Edinburgh, along with our quiet private annex in Bayeux and finally a seaside view for two nights in St Malo. I hoped everyone would feel slightly spoilt and special.

This small group tour just made taking off and we were like a large family on an outing. It was an enjoyable ride with a delightful group. I can never thank my guide Charles enough. His comprehensive historical knowledge and fun company makes each day another treasured memory.

During the tour one of my food icons died tragically and I leave my blogs for this tour with a quote from Antony Bourdain:

“Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world, you change things slightly; you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life–and travel–leaves marks on you.”