I can’t believe I have taken photos of gorse and the hedgerows throughout Scotland, which are a riot of yellow. Bought to NZ as a hedge plant, we now see it as a noxious weed and a nasty beast and I think actually it is here, too. I quite like the photos beside the wall panel from Dunrobin Castle (see above) and today, even gin is flavoured with gorse. You can even have gorse smelling moisturiser as well as a multitude of other products !!!
Inverness was our home for 3 nights, at the charming Glenmoriston hotel overlooking the Ness river. We had 2 full days with the first at a whisky tasting class in the cutest town of Dornoch, which is about an hour north of Inverness . It sits on the coast and is very famous for golf. Today was rather misty and it would have been pretty hard to see where your tee shot might have gone.
We were all enthralled with the presentation by Michael at the Carnegie Whisky tasting. He chose 6 very different whiskies as he introduced my group to Scotland’s oldest ‘drop’. He had lots of questions fired at him and it was a very informative 90 minutes,. We came away feeling rather warm and relaxed which was nice as we walked to lunch at the golf course hotel through the fog, or the ‘Haar’ as the Scots would say. Soup, along with platters of local smoked seafood, cheeses, home-baked bread and salads (enough to feed another group) was prepared by the chef Sam. He spoils my group each year with a veritable feast.
The home and gardens of the Sutherland’s Clan at Dunrobin is our first castle visit today. It’s an imposing building sitting high overlooking its formal gardens and the North Sea. Late in the afternoon is a perfect time to wander without the tourist crowds on what has now turned into a lovely sunny afternoon
Inverness means mouth of the River Ness. It’s the administrative capital of the Highlands and also sits on the edge of the Moray Firth. The adjacent Cromarty Firth with deeper water is now the location to many retired oil rigs waiting to be dismantled. It is also a port for the ever increasing cruise ship trade. Heading east, our second day starts with the spine chilling visit to Culloden, and for those who chose to walk out on the battle field, the foggy conditions made it very eery. The interactive museum here puts the failure of the Jacobite Rising culminating in the tragic battle of Culloden into perspective. Within 15 minutes and set in the countryside surrounded by enormous deciduous trees is one of my favourite gardens at Cawdor castle. The privately owned castle is still lived in during the winter months and open to the public during the summer, but it is the gardens which I love here with the stunningly beautiful Liburnum avenues dripping with yellow flowers, which in May are spectacular.
The final 4 days in Edinburgh successfully tie together our 13 days in Scotland. It’s an impressive city with a sense of familiarity as my town of Dunedin was planned and based on its Scottish immigrants home town. We entered the city via Falkirk and a short stop to investigate the Falkirk wheel which ingeniously lifts canal boats from the Forth/ Clyde Canal to the Union Canal eliminating the long series of canals we saw earlier on tour.
Edinburgh is Charles’ home town and his expert walking tour introduces my group to the city’s historical sites and complex history. Over the next few days we walked the famous Royal Mile, and visited the shops in Princess and George streets, which were close to our beautiful hotel ‘The Roxburghe’ in Charlotte Square. It has just been renovated and the interiors were inspiring. Walking past many iconic pubs and terrace housing, over which the vast castle always towers above the city, acting as a beacon in the late evening light. We visited the local farmers’ market and of course had to taste the Mutton pies, since we couldn’t buy everything. We then walked through the New Town to the outstanding Edinburgh Botanical gardens. I have always read very positive reviews about these gardens and you could easily spend a day here, but our sunny morning was highlighted by the most glorious display of blue meconopsis poppies I have ever seen.
Completing our Scottish experience is a drive around the coast known as East Neuk over the new Forth bridge. It was a foggy morning and the 3 bridges at Queensferry looked rather spooky in the morning light. Neuk is the Scots word for corner, and the East Neuk comprises of many cute fishing villages with names like Pittenweem, Anstruther and Crail. After a crab sandwich and a very interesting visit to a local Farm shop selling all their own meat and vegetables, we headed to the home of golf ‘St Andrews’. Normally the course is open to the public to walk on Sunday’s but today there is an amateur women’s tournament on and the course is closed for walkers except those wanting a photo on the famous Swilkan bridge. Charles organised a fish and chip lunch par elegance.
Once again Scotland has been an amazing ride. Beautiful local food, even more beautiful gardens and along with Charles, I think we once again gave everyone a very memorable Scottish experience, while also enjoying the most beautiful sunny hot calm days. This itinerary encompasses all the things I love about traveling and delivering our own unique take on a country very dear to our hearts.